The longer we live in France, the fewer processed foods in our diet. One reason is practicality - we can't find the foods we love (Mexican!) in this country, so when we crave a fajitas, we make it ourselves. Another reasons is that the basic ingredients in France are just better than what we ever found in the US. The French really care about the quality of their food. And since quality is often related to where the food comes from, most make deliberate decisions based on geography when buying their produce. For example, most prefer not to buy produce from Spain (I haven't quite figured out why yet. People have told me that they don't treat workers well, other say that its very industrial).
Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts
Fresh
It's been exactly one year since I moved to France. Obviously there have been many changes, but one of the most delightful has been the evolution of our culinary habits. We went from eating out multiple nights a week to making our own pizza - sauce and dough included!
Part of the change has been due to necessity. Our little town has three friendly, but mediocre restaurants. We have a great market with high quality meats, vegetables, cheeses and breads, but we have the occasional craving for American food. We have had to resort to making those things we miss, and ventured into re-creating dishes we've discovered here. The French also use less preservatives even in their processed foods leading us to buy less food and shop more often. And if we are going to shop for everything on a weekly basis, then we might as well buy fresh ingredients and make things ourselves.
It is surprisingly easy to make things from scratch. I think there is only marginally more effort, but there is definitely more clean up. Worth it though, because you can taste the difference. We make pizza dough from scratch, the sauce as well adding herbs from our little window herb garden. Today, I had a craving for cup cakes, so I made carrot cake with honey cream cheese frosting (the recipe is for maple frosting, but I didn't have maple syrup. I had honey so I used that instead). Instead of opening a box cake mix, I just mixed the dry ingredients myself -- easy as, well, cake. Things might be different if we had kids demanding our time and attention. But we don't, so we indulge in good eating, good wine, and the luxury of living in France.
We've tried good restaurants every now and again, but more and more people (french and long term expats) tell us that it is really hard to find a good restaurant that is worth the money. Our restaurant outings however are good for discovering good wines that we might not hear about otherwise.
I'm still deciding if the French museums are any better than those in DC. They are plentiful around here, and the French take their culture and history seriously. The museums and cultural sites are as plentiful as their vineyards. And like restaurants it is best to do some research before going to those off the beaten path. They are rarely free (unless it's the first Sunday of the month), and some are not worth the entrance fee.
All in all we are enjoying our lives here in France. We've met some extraordinary people. Sampled some good wine. We are still working on the language. Thomas has progressed enough to be able to scold the woman at the Marie for not being helpful. And my level is where it was when I finished grad school. The dogs are adjusting well, although I am pretty sure Scout prefers the US (more grassy spots there). But she is slowly getting used to the new life. I still don't understand why the French do certain things, but I've learned to just let it pass and move on. Because ici, c'est comme ça.
Part of the change has been due to necessity. Our little town has three friendly, but mediocre restaurants. We have a great market with high quality meats, vegetables, cheeses and breads, but we have the occasional craving for American food. We have had to resort to making those things we miss, and ventured into re-creating dishes we've discovered here. The French also use less preservatives even in their processed foods leading us to buy less food and shop more often. And if we are going to shop for everything on a weekly basis, then we might as well buy fresh ingredients and make things ourselves.
It is surprisingly easy to make things from scratch. I think there is only marginally more effort, but there is definitely more clean up. Worth it though, because you can taste the difference. We make pizza dough from scratch, the sauce as well adding herbs from our little window herb garden. Today, I had a craving for cup cakes, so I made carrot cake with honey cream cheese frosting (the recipe is for maple frosting, but I didn't have maple syrup. I had honey so I used that instead). Instead of opening a box cake mix, I just mixed the dry ingredients myself -- easy as, well, cake. Things might be different if we had kids demanding our time and attention. But we don't, so we indulge in good eating, good wine, and the luxury of living in France.
We've tried good restaurants every now and again, but more and more people (french and long term expats) tell us that it is really hard to find a good restaurant that is worth the money. Our restaurant outings however are good for discovering good wines that we might not hear about otherwise.
I'm still deciding if the French museums are any better than those in DC. They are plentiful around here, and the French take their culture and history seriously. The museums and cultural sites are as plentiful as their vineyards. And like restaurants it is best to do some research before going to those off the beaten path. They are rarely free (unless it's the first Sunday of the month), and some are not worth the entrance fee.
All in all we are enjoying our lives here in France. We've met some extraordinary people. Sampled some good wine. We are still working on the language. Thomas has progressed enough to be able to scold the woman at the Marie for not being helpful. And my level is where it was when I finished grad school. The dogs are adjusting well, although I am pretty sure Scout prefers the US (more grassy spots there). But she is slowly getting used to the new life. I still don't understand why the French do certain things, but I've learned to just let it pass and move on. Because ici, c'est comme ça.
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| Herbs from our window box herb garden. |
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| Herbs for the homemade breakfast sausage. |
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| Carrot cake with honey cream cheese icing -- all from scratch. |
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| Homemade pizza with roasted eggplant and broccoli - everything from scratch. |
Cultural Immersion
Saturday afternoon, Thomas and I went on a historical walking tour of Paris. The two hour tour was spent around the Palais Royal and focused on the French Revolution. History was never my strong suit - too many names and dates to retain in my head. I struggled through AP American history in high school. Nevertheless walking through Paris you get a strong sense of the history that has taken place in this city, and you quickly realize how important their past is to the French. But with France on it's fifth republic since being ruled by monarchs, the idea that I could even begin to understand the players and events that has shaped France today is a near impossible task. Understanding the history of France is integral to understanding the French. As difficult and complex their history is, I will nonetheless endeavor to try to learn as much of it as I can while I am here. These walking tours are a good (and fun) way to do that.
Below are more photos from our day walking around Paris.
Overall a good experience especially since many of the locations of historical events are still around. As I said earlier, we spent most of the tour in the Palais Royal and its gallery. The guide spun tales of Revolutionist, Royalists, Louis XVI. He told us stories of Jean Marat, who among other things started a news paper where he condemned the powerful and the elite. He was assassinated by a Girondist sympathizer. The Girondist also supported of the idea of ending the monarchy but did not like the current practice of mob rule that had taken hold at the start of the revolution. The guide showed us the location of where the old Tuileries Palace once stood (at one end of the Louvre). The palace was destroyed during the fourth French revolution. The tour ended at the Place de la Concorde where the obelisk now stands at the spot where Marie Antoinette was guillotined. The tour guide did a good job of bringing history to life in the setting where many of the events took place. He also threw in some surprising (at least to me) bits of facts - like how much support the French gave to the US during our revolutionary war and the location of the Republic of Texas (1842-1843) Embassy in the 2nd arrondissement.
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| Not the Palais Royal, but very indicative of French Architecture |
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| Place de la Concorde. Obelisk marks the spot where Marie Antoinette was executed. |
The cultural immersion continued into dinner with a French inspired menu.
Entrée
Savory roquefort crême brulée
Plat
Shrimp and asparagus crêpes
Dessert
Pot au Chocolat with Olive Oil and Sea Salt
While we love to cook, fancy shmancy dishes with long lists of ingredients are not our forté (at least not yet). The three dishes we prepared yesterday required only a few ingredients and kitchen time. Lucky for us the quality of the ingredients goes along way in making a dish taste great.
Roquefort Crême Brulée
Before moving to France, the creme brulées we sampled where sweet and creamy desserts. A simple substitution of strong flavored cheese for sugar makes this dish a perfect way to start a meal. Three ingredients: three egg yolks, 3/4 cups of cream, and 1/4 cups of roquefort cheese. Mix together in a blender, pour into two small ramekins, and bake in a water bath for 45 minutes at 275 degrees F (135 degrees C). Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, broil long enough to brown, and voila a light and savory starter. We first made this dish during our French cooking lesson in Versailles using muenster cheese.
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| Shrimp and asparagus crêpes |
The main dish was super easy too. I made a basic crepe batter which I popped in the fridge while preparing the dessert which had to cool and set before serving. I read somewhere that putting the batter in the fridge to rest makes a better crepes. It seems to help, so I've been doing this too. The filing was simple: shrimp with blanched asparagus. I made a cream sauce, which went inside with the filling and on top, with scallions, cream, and Parmesan. After assembling the crepes, I put them in the oven to heat up. Note for next time: one each would be plenty-- especially for a three course meal.
Pot au chocolat with huile d'olive et sel (olive oil and salt)
I had this dessert on Friday at Frenchie and could not wait to make it for Thomas. Chocolate, olive oil, and sea salt - all great ingredients themselves, but together the dish is mind blowing. The salt enhances the dark chocolate and the velvety olive oil. Definitely use quality ingredients (especially the chocolate and olive oil). I used this recipe for the chocolate part. This is also very simple. Melt the chocolate, add the sugar and cream, carefully combine the egg yolks (read the recipe instruction on how to do this), finish with the vanilla and pinch of salt. Cool in the frig. Right before serving, sprinkle with coarse sea salt, and then add a thin layer of good quality olive oil. The pot au chocolat is not as fluffy as chocolate mousse, but decant, delicious, and sinfully rich. One dish was enough for the two of us. In fact, we probably could have shared it with another couple. You don't need much to get your fill - just two or three spoonfuls. If you like chocolate and olive oil, I recommend trying this dish.
Below are more photos from our day walking around Paris.
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| Palais Royal. Today it houses the Constitutional Council and the Ministry of Culture |
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| Artist and Anti-Nuclear Demonstrators in Front of the Palais Royal |
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| Random string orchestra playing on the streets around the palace. |
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| Le Grande Vefour- the first grand restaurant in Paris opening in 1784. |
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| Location of the embassy of Texas (back when Texas was a separate republic) |
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| We ended the day at Angelina on Rue du Rivoli |
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| They have the world's best hot chocolate. |
Salon de Saveur
Yesterday was a bad day for life in Paris. There are just too many people living in this city, and they get in each other's way. The roads are too narrow. The streets are congested. The stores are crowded.
Yesterday as I was walking past a parking a garage from work, a car exiting sped up just to cut me off. He couldn't wait five seconds for me to pass. Instead he pretended not to see me (acknowledgement is practically an authorization to pass), sped up and came within kicking distance. I cursed at him in English and squatted down low enough to ensure that he saw me flip him off in the rear view mirror (I had to squat since he was driving Mercedes' version of a smart car). At the grocery store later that evening, where everyone and their mother was shopping, I witnessed how their bad driving gets translated into bad maneuvering with the shopping cart. One woman left her cart in the middle of the aisle while she was off picking up something on the shelves. This created chaos as other shoppers with their carts and baskets maneuvered around it. She return as I reached her cart, and without even looking to see if anyone was passing she cut me off (an another example of "if you look, you have to relent." With so many people around, if you give one person an inch, ten people will take a mile. So no one gives anything, and it's every shopper/pedestrian/ driver for herself. It is a bit stressful). After the incident with the car earlier, I audibly grumbled in English and proceeded to walk just enough ahead of her to cut her off. It felt good. And at that same moment, I came to the conclusion that things are the way they are here, and it will not change. Unless I wanted to go crazy, I need to focus on the good stuff.
There are lots of good stuff. We have met some engaging people with different reasons for being in Paris. We've had positive interactions with French, Germans, business people, retirees. Everyone has a story, and it's always interesting. We've been to unique events and lively dinners.
Most of the things we do are centered around food. Not surprising since it's so central to the culture- and not just the meals but also the production as well. The small producers are valued and sought out here in France. There is a great deal of respect for those that create their own products from start to finish - harvest to bottling to sales. These producers know their product wells. It is this expertise, knowledge and care at ever step of the process that makes the small producer preferable over large factories.
Salon de saveurs or food expos are found throughout Paris and throughout the year. These expos bring small producers from the region to a central location and ordinary gourmands like us can taste, buy, and salivate. This afternoon, Thomas and I, ventured to the Salon Mer & Vigne. Here we sampled cheeses, cured meats, wine, spices, and olive oils. I tasted Calvados for the first time (an apple brandy from Normandy). We spoke (or tried to with our limited French) to produces from Madagascar, Italy, and the various regions of France. It was a delicious afternoon. My only two regrets: 1) my French was not good enough to really benefit from the interactions and 2) we should have instituted a spending cap because it was way too easy to shop.
After just one hour and a half, we walked away with two bottles of wine, two bottles of champagne, vanilla pods from Madagascar, wild pepper corn, cured ham, Beaufort cheese, olive oil and white balsamic vinegar from Italy, a Calvados cocktail from Normandy, two types of salts, and honey from a producer who had seven types from which to choose. While we will not do this every week, it was an interesting way to shop. You got to taste and ask questions before buying.
Yesterday as I was walking past a parking a garage from work, a car exiting sped up just to cut me off. He couldn't wait five seconds for me to pass. Instead he pretended not to see me (acknowledgement is practically an authorization to pass), sped up and came within kicking distance. I cursed at him in English and squatted down low enough to ensure that he saw me flip him off in the rear view mirror (I had to squat since he was driving Mercedes' version of a smart car). At the grocery store later that evening, where everyone and their mother was shopping, I witnessed how their bad driving gets translated into bad maneuvering with the shopping cart. One woman left her cart in the middle of the aisle while she was off picking up something on the shelves. This created chaos as other shoppers with their carts and baskets maneuvered around it. She return as I reached her cart, and without even looking to see if anyone was passing she cut me off (an another example of "if you look, you have to relent." With so many people around, if you give one person an inch, ten people will take a mile. So no one gives anything, and it's every shopper/pedestrian/ driver for herself. It is a bit stressful). After the incident with the car earlier, I audibly grumbled in English and proceeded to walk just enough ahead of her to cut her off. It felt good. And at that same moment, I came to the conclusion that things are the way they are here, and it will not change. Unless I wanted to go crazy, I need to focus on the good stuff.
There are lots of good stuff. We have met some engaging people with different reasons for being in Paris. We've had positive interactions with French, Germans, business people, retirees. Everyone has a story, and it's always interesting. We've been to unique events and lively dinners.
Most of the things we do are centered around food. Not surprising since it's so central to the culture- and not just the meals but also the production as well. The small producers are valued and sought out here in France. There is a great deal of respect for those that create their own products from start to finish - harvest to bottling to sales. These producers know their product wells. It is this expertise, knowledge and care at ever step of the process that makes the small producer preferable over large factories.
Salon de saveurs or food expos are found throughout Paris and throughout the year. These expos bring small producers from the region to a central location and ordinary gourmands like us can taste, buy, and salivate. This afternoon, Thomas and I, ventured to the Salon Mer & Vigne. Here we sampled cheeses, cured meats, wine, spices, and olive oils. I tasted Calvados for the first time (an apple brandy from Normandy). We spoke (or tried to with our limited French) to produces from Madagascar, Italy, and the various regions of France. It was a delicious afternoon. My only two regrets: 1) my French was not good enough to really benefit from the interactions and 2) we should have instituted a spending cap because it was way too easy to shop.
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| Serrano ham |
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| Lavender and lavender based products |
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| Spices |
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| Tandoori |
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| To the shopper goes the spoils. |
Nothing speaks to the culture more than food
Last weekend was another food-centric weekend. Thomas and I decided that we should take a cooking class to learn about french cuisine. I found a self taught cook who gave classes out of his home in Versailles. His apartment looked out onto the King's kitchen garden situated next to the majestic Chateau of Versailles. I thought the location to be fitting for a french cooking class.
We weren't looking for a class on technique, but information and insight about the French and their food. The meal itself was OK, but the experience well worth the price. We used this opportunity to hear from the French about what they thought were typical dishes and ask questions about some of the products we've come across (fromage blanc for one). At times, I wanted paper and pencil to take notes throughout the dinner. We learned that they have three types of cream here in France - crème fraiche épaisse (we used in the gratin), crème fraiche liquide, and crème fleurette (we used in the crème brulée). We also learned that crème brulée is not just a dessert evident in the crème brulée appetizer that had muenster cheese in the cream mixture and topped with grated Parmesan that we had as an appetizer. We were informed that there is a small winery in Montemarte (Paris) that produces bad but expensive wine. We were also schooled on the difference between Provençal (anything related to the Provence region) and provincial (in the words of the French "anything out side of Paris").
We asked our dinner companions their choice of dishes that we should know how to make before leaving France. Their list included beef bourguinon (check), crèpes (check), quiche (check), and coq au vin (check). It looks like Thomas and I have been over achievers on the French cooking. Three of the four listed we made even before moving to France.
Sunday afternoon, our neighbors introduced us to the Indian quarter of Paris. It is located just south of Gare de Nord in the 10th arrondissment. Our neighbors took us to two shops. The only one whose name I can remember was VS CO Cash and Carry. These shops were replete with familiar (and wallet friendly) vegetables, ten varieties of rice, and an entire wall of spices. Thomas and I didn't really need anything, but that did not stop us from buying three different types of nuts, fennel, herbs of provence, haloumi cheese, and pita. After shopping we ate at Restaurant Dishny on the corner of Rue Cail and Rue Faubourg Saint-Denis. The simple decor of the restaurant does not reflect the complexity of spices in its dishes. It is hard to find dishes spiced authentically in a country where it's residents favor a subdued taste, so this restaurant was a welcome changed. I ordered the shrimp biryani (rice dish). The mound of saffron colored shrimp and rice was speckled with fresh mint, cardamon seeds, and green chilies. This did not come out of a box. Delicious! Needless to say, the Indian quarter is quite authentic. There was narry a European in sight - you know this ethnic scene was legit.
Next month, the Asian quarter!
We weren't looking for a class on technique, but information and insight about the French and their food. The meal itself was OK, but the experience well worth the price. We used this opportunity to hear from the French about what they thought were typical dishes and ask questions about some of the products we've come across (fromage blanc for one). At times, I wanted paper and pencil to take notes throughout the dinner. We learned that they have three types of cream here in France - crème fraiche épaisse (we used in the gratin), crème fraiche liquide, and crème fleurette (we used in the crème brulée). We also learned that crème brulée is not just a dessert evident in the crème brulée appetizer that had muenster cheese in the cream mixture and topped with grated Parmesan that we had as an appetizer. We were informed that there is a small winery in Montemarte (Paris) that produces bad but expensive wine. We were also schooled on the difference between Provençal (anything related to the Provence region) and provincial (in the words of the French "anything out side of Paris").
We asked our dinner companions their choice of dishes that we should know how to make before leaving France. Their list included beef bourguinon (check), crèpes (check), quiche (check), and coq au vin (check). It looks like Thomas and I have been over achievers on the French cooking. Three of the four listed we made even before moving to France.
Sunday afternoon, our neighbors introduced us to the Indian quarter of Paris. It is located just south of Gare de Nord in the 10th arrondissment. Our neighbors took us to two shops. The only one whose name I can remember was VS CO Cash and Carry. These shops were replete with familiar (and wallet friendly) vegetables, ten varieties of rice, and an entire wall of spices. Thomas and I didn't really need anything, but that did not stop us from buying three different types of nuts, fennel, herbs of provence, haloumi cheese, and pita. After shopping we ate at Restaurant Dishny on the corner of Rue Cail and Rue Faubourg Saint-Denis. The simple decor of the restaurant does not reflect the complexity of spices in its dishes. It is hard to find dishes spiced authentically in a country where it's residents favor a subdued taste, so this restaurant was a welcome changed. I ordered the shrimp biryani (rice dish). The mound of saffron colored shrimp and rice was speckled with fresh mint, cardamon seeds, and green chilies. This did not come out of a box. Delicious! Needless to say, the Indian quarter is quite authentic. There was narry a European in sight - you know this ethnic scene was legit.
Next month, the Asian quarter!
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| Savory crème brulée |
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| Beef Bourguignon and potatoes au gratin |
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| Poached pear in a red wine reduction syrup. |
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| Passing by the Arc de Triomphe |
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| Fresh produce at the Indian shop. Notice the banana flowers in the corner. |
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| Spices! |
Market Meals
We have been taking advantage of having a farmers markets just 10 minutes from the apartment. The trip to the center of town has become a Saturday morning tradition, and finding recipes that take advantage of the fresh produce has been a weekly challenge.
Almost everything we cook is from the market. We have enjoyed the hand made pasta and ravioli with veal. I made a quiche Loraine (including a homemade crust). Yesterday we had scallops with an endive salad and raspberry vinaigrette. This Saturday's market brought a couple selling oysters -- they even sold us the special knife to shuck them open for tonight's appetizers. This weekend ended with grilled steak, roasted sweet potatoes and asparagus. Most meals have been healthy. We do need to down size the portions. When we ask the vendors a quantity for two people, I think they really give us enough for three. Even in France, making a profit is an objective. But, we're learning. Next time, we'll just ask for one serving.
Almost everything we cook is from the market. We have enjoyed the hand made pasta and ravioli with veal. I made a quiche Loraine (including a homemade crust). Yesterday we had scallops with an endive salad and raspberry vinaigrette. This Saturday's market brought a couple selling oysters -- they even sold us the special knife to shuck them open for tonight's appetizers. This weekend ended with grilled steak, roasted sweet potatoes and asparagus. Most meals have been healthy. We do need to down size the portions. When we ask the vendors a quantity for two people, I think they really give us enough for three. Even in France, making a profit is an objective. But, we're learning. Next time, we'll just ask for one serving.
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| Veal, with homemade pasta, and roasted red peppers and broccoli. |
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| Quiche Loraine |
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| Salad, homemade ravioli, and veal. |
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| Scallops with orange, asparagus and endive salad. |
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| Fresh from the market oysters. |
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| Steak, sweet potatoes, and asparagus. |
Weekly Market Outing
I am absolutely loving the fact that we are a ten minute walk from our bi-weekly open air market. Each Wednesday and Saturday morning the central square brims with life as dozens of vendors bring to Garches peppers, raspberries, leeks, flowers, homemade pasta, cured meats, roasted chicken, cheeses, and freshly baked bread. It is a gourmand's paradise. There are even folks who sell crepes and fresh orange juice, as well as paella, Chinese and Lebanese food.
Each Saturday, Thomas and I head to the market to buy the ingredients for the meals that we'll have over the next few days. Tomorrow, I decided to make a quiche Loraine so we bought something bacon like. It was not exactly bacon because the butcher ran out of that, but he recommended this smoked something or other (he did tell me what it was, but I can't remember). I trusted his judgement. I told him what I was making, and I was happy to take his recommendation. We also bought some homemade pasta, and some veal. For the veal, we went to the butcher that Thomas befriended last week. He spoke only a little English so it took us (me, Thomas, the butcher, and his wife) to figure how to tell them that we wanted veal. They were patient and are always friendly and helpful when interacting with us. After trying to describe what we wanted to buy in broken French and the butcher listing all the meats he had, I pulled out my iphone and just googled it. His eyes lit up when he realized what we were asking for: "escalope de veau." Now we will know how to ask for it next time.
The market is always fun. Seeing all that fresh foods, also makes me want to cook better. Perhaps a cooking class is in our near future.
Each Saturday, Thomas and I head to the market to buy the ingredients for the meals that we'll have over the next few days. Tomorrow, I decided to make a quiche Loraine so we bought something bacon like. It was not exactly bacon because the butcher ran out of that, but he recommended this smoked something or other (he did tell me what it was, but I can't remember). I trusted his judgement. I told him what I was making, and I was happy to take his recommendation. We also bought some homemade pasta, and some veal. For the veal, we went to the butcher that Thomas befriended last week. He spoke only a little English so it took us (me, Thomas, the butcher, and his wife) to figure how to tell them that we wanted veal. They were patient and are always friendly and helpful when interacting with us. After trying to describe what we wanted to buy in broken French and the butcher listing all the meats he had, I pulled out my iphone and just googled it. His eyes lit up when he realized what we were asking for: "escalope de veau." Now we will know how to ask for it next time.
The market is always fun. Seeing all that fresh foods, also makes me want to cook better. Perhaps a cooking class is in our near future.
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| Crepes, coffee, and freshly squeezed OJ break. |
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| Handmade Pasta Guy |
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| Market is always at the town center next to the Church. |
Sugar High
You have not experienced a true croissant until you have sampled one in France. And even in France, not all patisseries (pastry shops) are a like. Some have croissants that are not flaky enough while others not buttery enough. I still haven't found one so flaky and buttery that it just melts in my mouth - my ultimate goal. A few have come close. When I find a croissant that is close to perfection, it stops me in my tracks. Before I am even out of the shop, I am unwrapping the croissant from its paper cover. If it is a good croissant, the initial bite always makes me pause. I stop, savor, and thank the heavens that I live in France.
This weekend, my last before Thomas arrives in France, I decided to try to find some pastry and chocolate shops that bloggers have been raving about. Google "best pastry shops in Paris," and pages of blogs appear listing all the their favorites. I found a location where there were a few patisseries within walking distance from each other and that was my destination for this afternoon.
As I walked from shop to shop (I only hit 4 because my 5 mile run this morning made me more tired than I realized)... as I walked from shop to shop I finally understood what being an artisan means. Most establishments had the chocolatier or pastry chef in the shop name. And most had the name on edible placards on each pastry or chocolate morsel. They are proud of their work. And after sampling a few, you easily recognize that they should be. Not only the tastes, but also the presentations are works of art. I tried taking a some photos, but the pictures I took through glass do not do the desserts justice. And yes, these do taste as good as they look. You can either take my word for it, or come to France to see for yourself.
On an interesting note. I had a light lunch along with the Fraiser at Christian Constant near the Jardin de Luxembourg. In addition to sugary confections he had a small variety of savory dishes. I decided to have a small quiche and tabbouleh salad at one of his indoor tables. He warned me though that there was a 20% service surcharge if you sit down and eat at the cafe -- and that is why people don't tip at restaurants. Service is already included in the bill... and the light bulb clicks on...
This weekend, my last before Thomas arrives in France, I decided to try to find some pastry and chocolate shops that bloggers have been raving about. Google "best pastry shops in Paris," and pages of blogs appear listing all the their favorites. I found a location where there were a few patisseries within walking distance from each other and that was my destination for this afternoon.
As I walked from shop to shop (I only hit 4 because my 5 mile run this morning made me more tired than I realized)... as I walked from shop to shop I finally understood what being an artisan means. Most establishments had the chocolatier or pastry chef in the shop name. And most had the name on edible placards on each pastry or chocolate morsel. They are proud of their work. And after sampling a few, you easily recognize that they should be. Not only the tastes, but also the presentations are works of art. I tried taking a some photos, but the pictures I took through glass do not do the desserts justice. And yes, these do taste as good as they look. You can either take my word for it, or come to France to see for yourself.
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| Macaron tree (meringue cookies) in the store display of Hugo & Victor. |
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| Jams and sugar cookies at Poline, |
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| Croissant from Poline. |
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| Napoleon type deserts at Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki. |
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| The Fraiser from Christian Constant. |
On an interesting note. I had a light lunch along with the Fraiser at Christian Constant near the Jardin de Luxembourg. In addition to sugary confections he had a small variety of savory dishes. I decided to have a small quiche and tabbouleh salad at one of his indoor tables. He warned me though that there was a 20% service surcharge if you sit down and eat at the cafe -- and that is why people don't tip at restaurants. Service is already included in the bill... and the light bulb clicks on...
A Garches Weekend
Despite an invite to a beach day trip, I decided to spend my first Saturday seeing what Garches had to offer. I woke up around 9 and went to the market in the center of town. I have been unenthusiastic about the vegetables in the grocery stores, so I was anxious to see what I could find at the biweekly market. I was not disappointed. While smaller than what I expected, there was an array of offers from vegetables to seafood from flowers to homemade pasta. There were also two vendors selling antiques. And like any other market in France, you can also buy a wallet, shoes, and clothing.
Now if sellers respond to demand, it is logical to assume that one can tell a lot about a community by the style of clothing sold at the market. And judging by what was offered this morning, the people of Garches are either frumpy or old. I am worried that it might be the latter given that when I was at church last week I was the youngest person there by 20 years until a nine year old girl walked in. It is hard to judge though considering it's vacation. Perhaps all the young denizens are away for the month of August. That is entirely plausible.
The market itself had everything I needed. I found it hard to shop since I didn't have any idea what I needed for the week. Since I bought a cast iron stove top grill yesterday, I decided to make skewers. I made sure I bought something from each stall. I bought green peppers and lemon from one stand, mushrooms from another, and asparagus from yet another. My French was still weak, but pointing is a universal language so I managed. I still haven't gathered enough courage to go to the butcher. Not only is the vocabulary different, but the style of cuts of meat are different as well. I'll need to study up on that one before venturing there. Last stop was the baked goods. It took all my will power not to order any tarts or other sweet treats he had--so tempting! I only ordered a baguette ordinare and of course a crossaint. It was so flaky yet so buttery that it just melted in my mouth.
I took my loot home and then headed out again to explore Garches. I found some interesting shops. We have, a what I call, a bric brac shop. A mom and pop store that sells house hold items like shower curtains, cooking utensils, place mats- basic items people need. I found the flower shop, the fancy bakery that sells French macaroons, and randomly a Nepalese restaurant. There was no one in there, but this is something I might have to check out once Thomas gets here next month.
There seems to be things around. It will be interesting to see how things pick up after everyone returns next month. After my little village exploration I managed to put together my little kitchen window flower box with basil, thyme, and rosemary. Can't wait to cook with those herbs.
Life in Garches will certainly be different than life in the 14th arrondissement. I will call it village life here. People may disagree, but to me, if it's not in the city than it's a village. The pace is slower. It is quiet. Tranquil is a good way to describe it.
Now if sellers respond to demand, it is logical to assume that one can tell a lot about a community by the style of clothing sold at the market. And judging by what was offered this morning, the people of Garches are either frumpy or old. I am worried that it might be the latter given that when I was at church last week I was the youngest person there by 20 years until a nine year old girl walked in. It is hard to judge though considering it's vacation. Perhaps all the young denizens are away for the month of August. That is entirely plausible.
The market itself had everything I needed. I found it hard to shop since I didn't have any idea what I needed for the week. Since I bought a cast iron stove top grill yesterday, I decided to make skewers. I made sure I bought something from each stall. I bought green peppers and lemon from one stand, mushrooms from another, and asparagus from yet another. My French was still weak, but pointing is a universal language so I managed. I still haven't gathered enough courage to go to the butcher. Not only is the vocabulary different, but the style of cuts of meat are different as well. I'll need to study up on that one before venturing there. Last stop was the baked goods. It took all my will power not to order any tarts or other sweet treats he had--so tempting! I only ordered a baguette ordinare and of course a crossaint. It was so flaky yet so buttery that it just melted in my mouth.
I took my loot home and then headed out again to explore Garches. I found some interesting shops. We have, a what I call, a bric brac shop. A mom and pop store that sells house hold items like shower curtains, cooking utensils, place mats- basic items people need. I found the flower shop, the fancy bakery that sells French macaroons, and randomly a Nepalese restaurant. There was no one in there, but this is something I might have to check out once Thomas gets here next month.
There seems to be things around. It will be interesting to see how things pick up after everyone returns next month. After my little village exploration I managed to put together my little kitchen window flower box with basil, thyme, and rosemary. Can't wait to cook with those herbs.
Life in Garches will certainly be different than life in the 14th arrondissement. I will call it village life here. People may disagree, but to me, if it's not in the city than it's a village. The pace is slower. It is quiet. Tranquil is a good way to describe it.
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| Garches Market |
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| First meal on the new cast iron grill |
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| Dinner almost al fresco |
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| New window herb garden |