Return to Normalcy

After all the craziness of last week, we thought the best thing we could do was to continue with what we had planned for the weekend.  After stopping at the kosher supermarket to lay down some flowers and pay our respects, we headed to the Chateau de Vincennes on the outskirts of Paris.  

“The only security of all is in a free press” - Thomas Jefferson

On the morning of January 7th, two terrorists infiltrated the offices of a french satirical magazine and assassinated 11 people (including 8 staff, one maintenance person, one police officer assigned to protect the editor, and a visitor). These people were killed because the terrorists did not agree with what the magazine said.  Moments later, the gunmen went on to kill another police officer who was responding to the attack.

Joyeux Noël in the Midi-Pyrenees

Cozy country cottage that is Scout approved

Since we were staying in Europe through the holidays again, we wanted to find some place that was Christmas-y.  We wanted to find a small European town with the old world feel, snowy fields where we could hike with our beagle, and a small cottage with a fire place.  Thomas and I had originally thought about going to the German Black Forest for the holidays.  However, the complications of renting a car in Paris and driving to Germany which has stricter rules and regulations made us change our plans.  Both countries might be in the same union, but it is surprisingly difficult to find a rental car in Paris with all the specs required in Germany (specifically snow tires which are required by German law, optional in France, and only available on rental cars in Lyon or closer to the border).  Given this complication we decided to stay in France. The question now was which part.  In the end, we found a charming little cottage surrounded by working farms in the foothills of the Pyrenees.  No snow, but it was a great location.  It was within a short drive (less than an hour) of fortresses, medieval castles, hikes, and even wineries.  It was also about a two hours drive from the mountains and ski resorts, and hiking trails are everywhere (even one that passed right by our house).

Thanksgiving...sort of

Even the fresh flowers came from our market.

If I had to pick one American holiday that the french would love, it would be Thanksgiving. This food-centric holiday where families gather around the table is something that would appeal to them. They can respect a holiday where the meal focuses on basic farm ingredients that is shared among friends.   And for the same exact reason, Thomas and I love this holiday.  We already love cooking with each other. We love entertaining, and we love sharing with our family and friends.  We would have loved to have celebrated this holiday with the family in the US, but since we could not go home this year, organizing a small dinner party here in France around the Thanksgiving theme is a good second-best option.

Nouveau wine

Thanksgiving might be an important November holiday in the US, but here in France the release of this year's Beaujolais Nouveau at the end of the month is the anticipated event.  It's a huge celebration here - at least in places where wine is sold (markets and grocery stores).  In my opinion it's just an excuse for a party.  It certainly cannot be because of its taste.  The wine is bottled and on the market just weeks after being harvested, so there is not much flavor or complexity to it.  But the release marks the start of the holiday season, so it's associated with a fun and festive atmosphere.  Just like how Thanksgiving in the US headlines the Christmas season, decorations start appearing in earnest throughout the Paris just as the new wine arrives on the scene. The holiday lights start popping up on trees and lamp posts.  Christmas trees and poinsettias are available for purchase.  In fact, the market was extra festive last Saturday.  There was even a special little game to celebrate the Beaujolais. With each purchase at the market, we had a chance to win a bottle of wine.  Chances were good because I think everyone who received the scratch off ticket won a free bottle. I wasn't that excited about the Beaujolais Nouveau, but I was not going to refuse the bottle of wine that Thomas won. Nothing improves the taste of the Beaujolais Nouveau than getting it for free.

King's Garden

In side the king's garden, with Saint Louis 

Cathedral in the back.

Last Tuesday was a holiday in France.  Deciding to take advantage of the day off, we headed to La Potager Du Roi (the king's garden) in Versailles.  We've been to Versailles so many times, it's surprising that it took us this long   Located next to Versailles Palace, the garden and surrounding buildings take you back centuries, and you can easily imagine Louis the XIV's gardener and servants walking the rows of fruit trees and vegetable patches.

Back in the 17th century, the 9 hectare garden provided the produce for Louis the XIV and his court.  Now it's the home of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure du Paysage (The National School of Landscape Architecture).  

European Heritage - old and even older

Scout enjoys European Patrimony Day
with a visit to the chateau gardens.

Each fall, governments all over Europe celebrate their heritage with open houses, lectures, and events at national sites and monuments.  Thomas and I try to take advantage of these events which usually involve exceptional openings, special programs, or discounted entrance fees.

This year we decided to go to Chateau Dampierre, a chateau that we always see on our way to Rambouillet forest, and the national archaeology museum in Saint Germaine en Laye.

Chateau Dampierre was built in the 1700s. It smaller than most of the other chateaus but the warm colors of the stone work , dark orange and sand tones, help make the chateau stand out from the surrounding forests which helps give it a sense of grandeur.  It's gardens were designed by the famous Le Notre but did not have the fanciful shapes and patterns of his other gardens at Versailles, Seaux, and Vaux le Vicomte.  The chateau garden was pleasant to walk around. It had a lovely canal with a garden folly at one end.  From afar, the chateau looks very stately but a closer inspection reveals the neglect of the years - sagging roofs, warped glass, and cracking masonry.  Its a shame that the house itself is in such disrepair.  Hopefully, there is a plan to ensure this little chateau endures for another 300 years.