Giverny- take two

Some sites are worth visiting a second time. Monet's garden in the village of Giverny is one of those places.  I visited the garden last June as one of my first excursions after moving to France.  The garden was a hobbyist photographer's dream come true, so I was eager to head back.  I really wanted Thomas to see it for himself, and I  wanted to see the garden during a different season.  Given that this place is popular with foreign visitors, we decided to make a trip Monet's garden this weekend to avoid the barrage that will descend on this tiny village in the coming months.

Visiting the Monet's house and garden in April rather than June meant far far fewer tourist.  Last June, touring the garden meant walking single file through the narrow garden paths- never stopping too long because of the 100 other people walking behind you.  It was so crowded last summer that the queue to enter Monet's house was two blocks long.  This weekend's visit, while a bit colder than the last, was much more pleasant because there were far fewer tourist around.  We could walk through the garden at our own pace.  We frequently paused to admire the colorful bounty of flowers, that the Monet Foundation gardeners masterfully planted to create a floral patch work showcasing nature's finest products.  Visiting the garden that was a source of Monet's inspiration will stir that spark of desire within you to become a great gardener or great artist or maybe both.



Last June's the garden was full of poppies and irises.  This month there were countless varieties of tulips and other bulb plants.




The water lilies, the inspiration of Monet's Les Nymphéas displayed at the Orangerie museum in Paris, are located in the Japanese Garden portion of the property.  The water lilies are not in bloom yet, but the frogs in the pond are quite vocal and provide wonder and entertainment to the garden visitors.


View of the garden from Monet's upstairs bedroom window.  You can understand how his garden could be a source of artistic inspiration.




The neighboring town of Vernon, is the closest train station to Giverny.  It has some interesting touristic sights of its own including a few enclaves of medieval buildings within the town limits.

In fact, you can take the train to Vernon and then bike 4 km (2.5 miles) to Giverny.  Once you cross the bridge, there is a pleasant bike path situated away from the main road.  It's a bit hard to find once you cross the bridge, but it's there and much calmer than sharing the road with the big tour buses.




Vernon's Gothic cathedral with a vintage Citroën passing by.


The interior of the cathedral.


Fontainebleau

One thing you learn fast in France is to never let a gorgeous day pass without enjoying it- you never know what the weather will be the next day.  Even though temperatures hit 70 degrees on Wednesday, they fell right back down to below 40s on Saturday. It felt like winter had returned.  The sun made an appearance on Sunday, so Thomas and I decided to make our way to Chateau de Fontainebleau.

With the country dotted with chateaus and royal residences, one could easily fall into chateau fatigue.  We often visit the gardens of Versailles and have been to the chateau twice already.  Versailles is nice, but it is often crowded.  It is an easy train ride from Paris and was once the seat of government during Louis the XIVIeme's reign.  This makes Versailles popular for tourist with limited time.  Chateau de Fontainbleau, however, is worth a visit if you can squeeze it in.  Napoleon the first once said that Fontainbleau was the "real abode of kings, the house of centuries."  Throughout the chateau you can see where each sovereign has tried to make his/her mark - be it an addition of a new wing, heralds and symbols.  Every nook and cranny of this royal place is filled with striking frescos, sculptures, and antiques.  As you walk through each room of the Royal Apartments, you will not know which to focus on first - the embellished ceiling, the antique clock, the grand tapestry  or the ornate sculptures that make it seem like the paintings on the walls are coming to life.  Thankfully, the audio tour (which is included in the entrance fee) helps you focus your attention as well as provides a way to learn about the history at your own pace as you maneuver your way thorough the chateau.  Don't forget to pack a lunch so you can picnic on a bench in the formal garden. 



Queens bedroom

chapel ceiling from the balcony

Gallery of François the 1st. Built to connect the chateau and the chapel.

Gallery of François the 1st.



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Gallery of Diana (goddess of the hunt)

Napoleon's throne room

Chapel

Formal gardens of the chateau

Random car parked outside of the chateau

Road warrior

Lesson for today: Never fake not knowing a language unless you are fully committed to playing dumb.

Today was my first attempt of bike commuting here in France. There have been several obstacles to me getting on my bike: 1) the weather - its been either cold or rainy or both; 2) the hill between home and the office.  The incline is only for a mile, but it's steep; 3) the patchy network of bike trails that appear and disappear with every other block.  

With the temperature finally reaching 70 yesterday, there was one less excuse for not riding to work. Plus all the wine, cheese, and croissants in which I've been indulging have made biking those hills an imperative.

The first part of my ride this morning was quite enjoyable. I left by 8am- way before the time parents started taking the kiddies to school.  The traffic was flowing and the park was calm.   

The atmosphere from one side of the bridge from the other, however, couldn't be more different.  One side of the Seine (the Garches side), my route took me through the Parc de Saint Cloud which consisted of trails and paths through the park with very few cars.  Once I crossed the Seine, it turned to city commuting.  On the other side of the bridge, the bike paths are not connected. You share the road with cars, buses and motos.  Traffic is usually pretty heavy so speeding cars don't seem to be an issue.  

I personally, don't think Paris is bike friendly.  Vehicles do give you space when you are on your bike, but don't even think of riding on the sidewalk.  Even though I often see motos and sometimes cars drive on the sidewalk to avoid traffic, the police were quick to stop me within  just two minutes of getting on the sidewalk.  I tried the "je ne comprend pas", hoping he would cut me some slack.  He quickly realized though that I understood. That only made him angry. Next time, when I fake not knowing French, I will have to commit to faking not know the language.

Paris is in need of a bike advocacy group.  If they had at least one route that went along the river  from the western suburbs to Paris, I think more people would ride to work.  It's not a long commute. It  is certainly faster than taking the bus.  It's just a shame that those of us who would like to bike to work have to act like road warriors. 



Got lost and ended up here

Daily Commute

Stuck

It must have been week of full moons because there were some crazy stuff happening.  Sometimes I chalk up the weirdness to being in France (like trying to order pizza on line from Web Pizza only to find out you can only call in your order-- happens a lot here).  Other times, I think that life is full of strange happenings. At least we have stories to tell.

Story #1.

After a lovely day trip to Chateau de Rambouillet (an official residence for the President of France), we took Molly and Scout on their evening walk.  We meandered through Garches and ended up at the Marie (mayor's office). It's one of the few public places with grass, so we often take the dogs there.  As we were exiting to leave, a cute, little boston terrier who was off leash started sniffing the beagles.  Dogs off leash are quite common here, but usually the owner is within view.  This dog was not fixed and was in heat, so he would not leave Scout alone.  Scout wanted none of it. It was the first time I saw her show here teeth.  It was clear that it was time to go home.  But how do you control a dog not on a leash?  Well, you don't.  We left the park, and the little terrier followed.  We even tried to close the park gate, but the little fellow pushed his way through.  No owner in sight. No tags on the dog. He seemed to be lost.

We thought the dog was the one we often see behind the gate of this house near our apartment.  Thomas was convinced that this was the same dog.  We knew the Boston terrier would follow the beagles, so we thought we would try to get him home. The half mile seemed like a hundred.  I was a little fearful of the little dog walking without a leash on the narrow sidewalk as cars went whizzing by (I think the french drive too fast on the residential roads).   Fortunately, he was well trained and knew where to walk.

Twenty minutes later, we get to the house.  Thomas was about to open the garden door to let him back in but I thought it wise to ring the bell at the front of the house first.  Good thing we did, because as we turned the corner, the dog that we thought was lost came running to fence.  It was clear now that the dog we took from the park was not the dog from this house.  Oops.  The new plan?  I would take Molly and Scout back home and Thomas would take the dog back to the Marie hoping the owner would spot him.

Long story short, Thomas dropped the little guy off back where we found him.  But as I met up with Thomas as he was walking back home, I saw the little dog following him about 20 meters behind.  We tried taking him to the Gendarmerie (Garches' police), but the station is closed on weekends -apparently no crimes happen in town on Saturdays and Sundays.  Thankfully, we ran into our upstairs neighbors in the town square.  They offered to house the dog until the next morning when the veterinarian would be able to determine who this little guy belonged to.

It all ends well.  The next day, they went to vet. With a little chip implanted in the dog, the vet found the address of the owner- a grandmother who lives near the Marie.  Her grandkids where visiting. When they left, the little dog escaped trying to find them.

Story #2
April 15th (tax day) is looming.  Because of the complication of our situation, we decided to get some professional assistance.  We found a tax adviser in the 16th arrondissment.  Nothing out of the ordinary about that.

The 16th is full of Haussman style buildings.  When you think of Paris, you are thinking of these buildings.  Charming? Yes. Originally built with modern conveniences? No.  It is quite common that people have to walk up tall flights of stairs.  Sometimes they retro fit small (4 persons) elevators as was the case Tuesday evening.

As the door of the glass elevator closed behind us, I heard a harsh crack- not something you want to hear while you are in an elevator.  It was only two flights up.  When we got to the second floor, the elevator door did not open.  We tried going back down to the ground floor; up to the third hoping was something wrong with the second floor an not the elevator itself- no such luck.  We called the tax accountant on my cell.  He tried helping us from the outside, but couldn't get the door open either.  Thankfully my French was good enough to tell the operator who answered after pushing the elevator emergency button our situation.  Forty minutes and two elevator employees later, we were freed.  That will be the last time I take an elevator in Paris.

The trip to Ramboulliet was pleasant.  We did this via a meet up.  The people were nice. The chateau itself is only worth visiting during the first Sunday of the month when its free.

Photos from Ramboulliet