Showing posts with label Chateau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chateau. Show all posts

Loire- Wine, Bikes, and Castles

Early last month, I was told that I was going to lose 12 days of vacation if I didn't take them before the end of March.  There was no way I could schedule two and half weeks of holiday on such sort notice. So as to not lose it all, we decided to go for along weekend to the Loire Valley.  Being only two hours away it was the perfect destination for a three day holiday.

Return to Normalcy

After all the craziness of last week, we thought the best thing we could do was to continue with what we had planned for the weekend.  After stopping at the kosher supermarket to lay down some flowers and pay our respects, we headed to the Chateau de Vincennes on the outskirts of Paris.  

Joyeux Noël in the Midi-Pyrenees

Cozy country cottage that is Scout approved
Since we were staying in Europe through the holidays again, we wanted to find some place that was Christmas-y.  We wanted to find a small European town with the old world feel, snowy fields where we could hike with our beagle, and a small cottage with a fire place.  Thomas and I had originally thought about going to the German Black Forest for the holidays.  However, the complications of renting a car in Paris and driving to Germany which has stricter rules and regulations made us change our plans.  Both countries might be in the same union, but it is surprisingly difficult to find a rental car in Paris with all the specs required in Germany (specifically snow tires which are required by German law, optional in France, and only available on rental cars in Lyon or closer to the border).  Given this complication we decided to stay in France. The question now was which part.  In the end, we found a charming little cottage surrounded by working farms in the foothills of the Pyrenees.  No snow, but it was a great location.  It was within a short drive (less than an hour) of fortresses, medieval castles, hikes, and even wineries.  It was also about a two hours drive from the mountains and ski resorts, and hiking trails are everywhere (even one that passed right by our house).

European Heritage - old and even older

Scout enjoys European Patrimony Day
with a visit to the chateau gardens.
Each fall, governments all over Europe celebrate their heritage with open houses, lectures, and events at national sites and monuments.  Thomas and I try to take advantage of these events which usually involve exceptional openings, special programs, or discounted entrance fees.

This year we decided to go to Chateau Dampierre, a chateau that we always see on our way to Rambouillet forest, and the national archaeology museum in Saint Germaine en Laye.

Chateau Dampierre was built in the 1700s. It smaller than most of the other chateaus but the warm colors of the stone work , dark orange and sand tones, help make the chateau stand out from the surrounding forests which helps give it a sense of grandeur.  It's gardens were designed by the famous Le Notre but did not have the fanciful shapes and patterns of his other gardens at Versailles, Seaux, and Vaux le Vicomte.  The chateau garden was pleasant to walk around. It had a lovely canal with a garden folly at one end.  From afar, the chateau looks very stately but a closer inspection reveals the neglect of the years - sagging roofs, warped glass, and cracking masonry.  Its a shame that the house itself is in such disrepair.  Hopefully, there is a plan to ensure this little chateau endures for another 300 years.

Scout goes to Normandy

Some photos from our day trip to Chateau Gaillard - ruins of a medieval fortress. More text to come later.

New year, new chateau

We are rounding out the end of our second year.   Even though our life here is comfortable and at times routine,  we are still trying not to take our situation for granted.  We've continued to make friends, find new sites to visit, and explore our area.  This weekend, we decided to head north of Paris to the Domaine de Chantilly.

The original chateau in this domaine was burned down during the French revolution.  A new one was built the 1870s.  The grounds are stunning (the garden was designed by Andre Le Notre), but the chateau is also the location of the Condé Museum which has an impressive art collection.  Second only to the Louvre (according to Wikipedia).

A Chateau Fit for a King

Nicolas Fouquet hired famous architecture Louis la Vau, landscape architect André le Notre, and decorator/painter Charles Le Brun to build Vaux le Vicomte.  This trifecta of creative geniuses constructed a chateau fit for a king.

Once built, Fouquet and his wife, threw lavish parties showing off the newly renovated estate.  One such party, which included a new play by Molière and ended with fireworks, was attended by King Louis XIV.  He was impressed that one man could create such a grand residence.

Fontainebleau

One thing you learn fast in France is to never let a gorgeous day pass without enjoying it- you never know what the weather will be the next day.  Even though temperatures hit 70 degrees on Wednesday, they fell right back down to below 40s on Saturday. It felt like winter had returned.  The sun made an appearance on Sunday, so Thomas and I decided to make our way to Chateau de Fontainebleau.

With the country dotted with chateaus and royal residences, one could easily fall into chateau fatigue.  We often visit the gardens of Versailles and have been to the chateau twice already.  Versailles is nice, but it is often crowded.  It is an easy train ride from Paris and was once the seat of government during Louis the XIVIeme's reign.  This makes Versailles popular for tourist with limited time.  Chateau de Fontainbleau, however, is worth a visit if you can squeeze it in.  Napoleon the first once said that Fontainbleau was the "real abode of kings, the house of centuries."  Throughout the chateau you can see where each sovereign has tried to make his/her mark - be it an addition of a new wing, heralds and symbols.  Every nook and cranny of this royal place is filled with striking frescos, sculptures, and antiques.  As you walk through each room of the Royal Apartments, you will not know which to focus on first - the embellished ceiling, the antique clock, the grand tapestry  or the ornate sculptures that make it seem like the paintings on the walls are coming to life.  Thankfully, the audio tour (which is included in the entrance fee) helps you focus your attention as well as provides a way to learn about the history at your own pace as you maneuver your way thorough the chateau.  Don't forget to pack a lunch so you can picnic on a bench in the formal garden. 



Queens bedroom

chapel ceiling from the balcony

Gallery of François the 1st. Built to connect the chateau and the chapel.

Gallery of François the 1st.



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Gallery of Diana (goddess of the hunt)

Napoleon's throne room

Chapel

Formal gardens of the chateau

Random car parked outside of the chateau

Stuck

It must have been week of full moons because there were some crazy stuff happening.  Sometimes I chalk up the weirdness to being in France (like trying to order pizza on line from Web Pizza only to find out you can only call in your order-- happens a lot here).  Other times, I think that life is full of strange happenings. At least we have stories to tell.

Story #1.

After a lovely day trip to Chateau de Rambouillet (an official residence for the President of France), we took Molly and Scout on their evening walk.  We meandered through Garches and ended up at the Marie (mayor's office). It's one of the few public places with grass, so we often take the dogs there.  As we were exiting to leave, a cute, little boston terrier who was off leash started sniffing the beagles.  Dogs off leash are quite common here, but usually the owner is within view.  This dog was not fixed and was in heat, so he would not leave Scout alone.  Scout wanted none of it. It was the first time I saw her show here teeth.  It was clear that it was time to go home.  But how do you control a dog not on a leash?  Well, you don't.  We left the park, and the little terrier followed.  We even tried to close the park gate, but the little fellow pushed his way through.  No owner in sight. No tags on the dog. He seemed to be lost.

We thought the dog was the one we often see behind the gate of this house near our apartment.  Thomas was convinced that this was the same dog.  We knew the Boston terrier would follow the beagles, so we thought we would try to get him home. The half mile seemed like a hundred.  I was a little fearful of the little dog walking without a leash on the narrow sidewalk as cars went whizzing by (I think the french drive too fast on the residential roads).   Fortunately, he was well trained and knew where to walk.

Twenty minutes later, we get to the house.  Thomas was about to open the garden door to let him back in but I thought it wise to ring the bell at the front of the house first.  Good thing we did, because as we turned the corner, the dog that we thought was lost came running to fence.  It was clear now that the dog we took from the park was not the dog from this house.  Oops.  The new plan?  I would take Molly and Scout back home and Thomas would take the dog back to the Marie hoping the owner would spot him.

Long story short, Thomas dropped the little guy off back where we found him.  But as I met up with Thomas as he was walking back home, I saw the little dog following him about 20 meters behind.  We tried taking him to the Gendarmerie (Garches' police), but the station is closed on weekends -apparently no crimes happen in town on Saturdays and Sundays.  Thankfully, we ran into our upstairs neighbors in the town square.  They offered to house the dog until the next morning when the veterinarian would be able to determine who this little guy belonged to.

It all ends well.  The next day, they went to vet. With a little chip implanted in the dog, the vet found the address of the owner- a grandmother who lives near the Marie.  Her grandkids where visiting. When they left, the little dog escaped trying to find them.

Story #2
April 15th (tax day) is looming.  Because of the complication of our situation, we decided to get some professional assistance.  We found a tax adviser in the 16th arrondissment.  Nothing out of the ordinary about that.

The 16th is full of Haussman style buildings.  When you think of Paris, you are thinking of these buildings.  Charming? Yes. Originally built with modern conveniences? No.  It is quite common that people have to walk up tall flights of stairs.  Sometimes they retro fit small (4 persons) elevators as was the case Tuesday evening.

As the door of the glass elevator closed behind us, I heard a harsh crack- not something you want to hear while you are in an elevator.  It was only two flights up.  When we got to the second floor, the elevator door did not open.  We tried going back down to the ground floor; up to the third hoping was something wrong with the second floor an not the elevator itself- no such luck.  We called the tax accountant on my cell.  He tried helping us from the outside, but couldn't get the door open either.  Thankfully my French was good enough to tell the operator who answered after pushing the elevator emergency button our situation.  Forty minutes and two elevator employees later, we were freed.  That will be the last time I take an elevator in Paris.

The trip to Ramboulliet was pleasant.  We did this via a meet up.  The people were nice. The chateau itself is only worth visiting during the first Sunday of the month when its free.

Photos from Ramboulliet





Toussaint Holiday Weekend

We spent All Saints Day holiday weekend touring the area between La Mans and Tours ( a two hour drive south west of Paris). Below are a few photos. I'll write more later...

Chateau Bezonnais - we stayed in one of their three gites (guest houses).

The weather was not very pleasant during our stay.
It hailed within the first 15 minutes of our arrival.
The entrance of Chateau Bezonnais.

Thomas now wants a house with a moat...

Chateau Bezonnais had a lovely formal garden.

And lots of animals roaming around.

Scout was quite taken by the swans.

Chateau de Lude - northern most Loire Valley Chateau 



Eglise Saint-Vincent.  One of the many historic churches in the area.
Constructed at the end of the 11th century.

Area is also known for its wines. 

Many of the former quarries are now wine caves.

L'église de Poncé.  Twelfth century Romanesque Church.

Fresco's in the interieur of the church were discovered in 1883.


Off the beaten path: Rueil-Malmaison

Our first weekend outing lead us seven km north of Garches to Rueil-Malmaison.  Known best for the Chateau where Napoleon Bonaparte and his first wife Joséphine lived in the late 18th century.  This small castle became part of the seat of French Government and the location where Napoleon made many important acts including selling Louisiana to the US. (http://www.mairie-rueilmalmaison.fr/histoire-de-rueil)

The Chateau is much smaller and less extravagant than Versailles, but certainly not lacking in luxury and opulence.  Just like Versailles, the castle had intricately painted scenes on the walls and ceiling, beautiful crystal chandeliers, and gilded furniture -- just much less of it.

Chateau Rueil-Malmaison - taken from the garden 2012.

Vue du Chateau de Malmaison around 1805. Pierre Joseph Petit 
Billards Room

Bibliotheque (Library)


Napoleon's bedroom.
There was no entrance fee to the house when we visited, but that might have been because of the jubilee celebration.  According to the website it looks like there is a nominal fee to the house and surrounding park.  Also, be aware that it is a bit of a walk from the RER station.  You can find more information on their website: http://www.musees-nationaux-napoleoniens.org/homes/home_id24833_u1l2.htm

The town was also celebrating the first imperial jubilee for Napoleon and Josephine.  This meant  lots of historical re-enactment throughout the town.  We ran into a few as we walked from the Chateau back to the RER station.