French weather: B-, but French parks: A+

I have to keep reminding myself that we are in June.  Last weekend was so cold, that I wore jeans, a fleece pullover, and scarf (although the scarf was more of a fashion accessory rather than a weather related consideration).  The temperature barely went above 60 degrees (F), and it rained off and on for most of the weekend.  Despite the gloom, the weather didn't stop us from exploring more of France.

This weekend we went to Saint-Germain-en-Laye, another western suburb.  It was a royal town. being residences to many french monarchs, and during world war two was the head quarters of the Germany Army.  We went there for the parks that are often associated with the chateaus.  The chateau now houses an archaeology museum.  We passed on the museum this time around since next weekend is the first Sunday of the month (meaning museums in France are free).  We were ambivalent about it so the seven euro entrance fee was enough of a reason to skip it.

The garden, technically it's a national forest, itself was plenty to keep us occupied.  We covered only one small corner of the 48 square kilometer forest. It was the section next to the museum.  As it happens, there was an open air exposition in the garden.  The dreary cold weather added to the ambiance to the outdoor art work.  The art was dreamy french romantic.  There was a bed fit for a queen floating in one of the fountains.  Stark white two dimensional "statutes" shaped like children were positioned throughout the park like the historical one common in traditional french gardens.  It was a delight.

The city itself wasn't too shabby either.  With several Michelin rated restaurants, we'll certainly be back for further explorations.

On a culinary note, our quest for Mexican food took us back to Marly le Roi.  We noticed Casa Rosa, a restaurant with enchiladas and burritos on the menu.  With a menu at french prices we had high hopes for the place.  Those were dashed the minute we sat down.  Before walking in I had imagine Guapos - a friendly neighborhood restaurant active with diners, families, and tortilla makers.  Casa Rosa was quite. The staff was as friendly which made up for the less than spicy meals.  They got the plates correct - fajitas, burritos, enchilada, and chili with a few extras like hamburger.  The sliver lining was the margaritas. Good to know that mix drinks translate well in any culture.








Unplug

Life in France is a little less plugged in. Obviously we still have internet and mobile phones, but we don't have a TV. We are more likely to enjoy a day at the park than inside a shopping mall or movie theater.

Lucky for us, parks are what the French do well.  Some are private while others are public.  Some are part of chateaus while others are just part of the urban landscape.

We finally had a beautiful day this weekend.  Thomas and I packed ourselves a little picnic lunch and headed to Versailles.  During the off season, the gardens are free. We spent many outings walking around the garden.  The park is a little less green and the statues are covered in the winter time, but it is still nice to wander around.  Weekends during the summer the fountains are turned on, but now there is an entrance fee.  Unfortunately for us, they stop the water during lunch time (from 12-3:30, the fountains aren't running).  Next time, we'll get there earlier to enjoy the water "show".Also during the summer, classical music is piped in throughout the garden.  As we strolled through the gardens on this beautiful summers day, I thought to myself that this is what I imagined our life in France would be like:  Thomas and I meandering through the park, walking through a maze of well manicured bushes of the formal garden, past marble statues while Chopin  played in the background.  Life is good.









Fresh

It's been exactly one year since I moved to France.  Obviously there have been many changes, but one of the most delightful has been the evolution of our culinary habits.  We went from eating out multiple nights a week to making our own pizza - sauce and dough included!

Part of the change has been due to necessity.   Our little town has three friendly, but mediocre restaurants. We have a great market with high quality meats, vegetables, cheeses and breads, but we have the occasional craving for American food.  We have had to resort to making those things we miss, and ventured into re-creating dishes we've discovered here.   The French also use less preservatives even in their processed foods leading us to buy less food and shop more often.  And if we are going to shop for everything on a weekly basis, then we might as well buy fresh ingredients and make things ourselves.

It is surprisingly easy to make things from scratch.  I think there is only marginally more effort, but there is definitely more clean up.  Worth it though, because you can taste the difference.  We make pizza dough from scratch, the sauce as well adding herbs from our little window herb garden.  Today, I had a craving for cup cakes, so I made carrot cake with honey cream cheese frosting (the recipe is for maple frosting, but I didn't have maple syrup. I had honey so I used that instead). Instead of opening a box cake mix, I just mixed the dry ingredients myself -- easy as, well, cake.  Things might be different if we had kids demanding our time and attention. But we don't, so we indulge in good eating, good wine, and the luxury of living in France.

We've tried good restaurants every now and again, but more and more people (french and long term expats) tell us that it is really hard to find a good restaurant that is worth the money.  Our restaurant outings however are good for discovering good wines that we might not hear about otherwise.

I'm still deciding if the French museums are any better than those in DC.  They are plentiful around here, and the French take their culture and history seriously.  The museums and cultural sites are as plentiful as their vineyards. And like restaurants it is best to do some research before going to those off the beaten path.  They are rarely free (unless it's the first Sunday of the month), and some are not worth the entrance fee.

All in all we are enjoying our lives here in France. We've met some extraordinary people. Sampled some good wine.  We are still working on the language. Thomas has progressed enough to be able to scold the woman at the Marie for not being helpful.  And my level is where it was when I finished grad school. The dogs are adjusting well, although I am pretty sure Scout prefers the US (more grassy spots there). But she is slowly getting used to the new life. I still don't understand why the French do certain things, but I've learned to just let it pass and move on. Because ici, c'est comme ça.

Herbs from our window box herb garden.

Herbs for the homemade breakfast sausage.

Carrot cake with honey cream cheese icing -- all from scratch.


Homemade pizza with roasted eggplant and broccoli - everything from scratch.