Four hours in Chartres, France

We decided that at least one day during the weekend must be spent discovering France. While we love our town of Garches, and spent much of yesterday exploring the Parc de Saint Cloud with the dogs, we knew we had to make an effort to plan day trips out of Paris.

Today, we took the train to the town of Chartres located 60 miles southwest of Paris.  This city is known best for its high gothic, medieval cathedral.  The Cathédral Notre-Dame de Chartres, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was constructed in the late 11th and early 12th century.  It survived a fire in 1194 as well as bombing during World War II.

The architecture is true to Gothic form with its high pointed arches and large and majestic stain glass windows and carved stones depicting stories from the bible.  One could spend all day looking at the reliefs above the doorways captivated by the stories they are trying to convey to us.  Because it was a quick day trip we did not take a tour. I think this is one cathedral where a guide could add value helping to interpret the stories told in the architecture of the church.  The cathedral is also the last cathedral in France where the labyrinth, an intricate, circular path that methodically works its way from the outside in, still exists.  Most labyrinths in French churches were ordered destroyed.  But because the one in the cathedral was so deeply embedded into the foundations of the church, it was left as is.  It was rarely used.  In fact, most of the time it was covered with chairs used during mass.  Recently, the labyrinth society asked the church to make it available every Friday morning.  It is said that these labyrinths were (are) used as a way to mediate.

We will make our way to Chartres again to get a better interpretations of the beautiful reliefs. We also need to return in order to see Mary's veil - a silk relic Mary wore when she gave birth to Jesus (or so it is believed).  It was given to Chartres by Charlemagne's grandson. I am not sure how we missed that. I'm sure it was prominently displayed.

Cathédral Notre-Dame de Chartres
Magnificent Stainglass

There are 172 images of Mary in the church.

Stations of the Cross carved in stone.

View of the alter.  Today's mass had a horn troupe providing the music.
After mass they  played a little concert  for  the congregation and tourists.


They are currently renovating the church. There is a stark difference between the parts that have been  cleaned (in the back) with those that have not (in the foreground).



Sun dial outside the cathedral.

Flying buttresses and tower.

Intricately carved doorway.

Town of Chartres (the old part).



Apparently James Bond visits here or at least he parks his Astin Martin in Chartres.


Strike one!

The French strike as often as the seasons change.  Transportation networks are infamous for protesting with a work slow down on at least one of their lines. I've been told that striking on the RER B is particularly endemic.  There is such a high degree of strikes on the train system that there are several websites dedicated to giving commuters information before and during the strikes.  I suppose one was bound to impact my commute eventually. Turns out that time would be tomorrow.

The strikers are at least thoughtful enough to announce their strike a full week ahead.  It's also rarely a work stoppage.  For the most part, trains are on an extremely reduce schedule- instead of every 8 minutes, it's ever half hour.

I wonder if train strikes in France are like snow days in DC.  The thought of one snowflake hitting the ground in DC meant that Federal workers are on a liberal leave policy (they can telework or take unscheduled leave). Do the French have a policy for transportation slow downs?  I guess I will ask tomorrow when I go to work.

I wonder how crowded the trains will be in the morning. Do people stay home when the strike is this widespread (it's all the train lines in France)?  The tram was almost empty on my way home today- I guess everyone but me got the memo that strike was starting today at 7 pm.

Ironically, I don't take the train to work, but because of an office retreat I need to take the train into Paris.  And, judging from these photos, I don't think I am going to have a fun commute tomorrow...
http://www.grevesncf.com/index.php/photos/54/une-greve-de-plus-jpf-75--les-jeunes-pour-la-france-de



Train schedule during the strike. Usually there is a train every 8 minutes in the morning.

Gare de départ :
Gare de destination :
Pour la journée du :
 GARCHES MARNES LA COQUETTE
 PARIS SAINT-LAZARE
 25/10/2012

Prévisions de circulation des trains 
Sur la ligne L:ST NOM LA BRETECHE-PARIS ST LAZARE, voici les horaires de la gare de départ:
05  15     44   
06  10     56   
07  11     57   
08  12     27   
09  43   
10  23     53   
11  53   
12
13  23   
14
15  23   
16  23     55   
17  10     40   
18  10     40   
19  10   
20  10   
21  09   
22  09   
23  09   
00  09   


Rainy Daze

It has been raining non-stop for about two weeks now here in France.  Because of the weather, our time has been spent indoors (mostly recovering from this cold that Thomas and I keep passing onto each other).  The wet weather also leaves us two choices as far as things to do -- baking and hitting the museums -- and this weekend was no different.

Yesterday, I tried channeling my inner french chef and decided to try my hand at making a chocolate souffle. There is something about being in France that makes me want to cook - and not just scrabbled eggs, but dishes that tantalize the gourmand in us.  I think this is because markets with fresh and colorful ingredients are close by, and I often walk pass pastry and chocolate shops run by not just shop keepers but by artists who take great pride in their work.  With fresh and artful food everywhere, how can I not be inspired? My sparse kitchen skills will put a limit on what I can do. Thankfully, there are surprisingly many dishes that seem fancy, but take only minutes to prepare. The chocolate soufflé is one of them.



This recipe from epicurious involves only 3 ingredients - (good quality) chocolate, eggs, and sugar. The only special tool you need is the soufflé pan.  After 40 minutes of  melting,  whipping, folding, and baking we had a delicious, airy, and deep dark chocolaty after dinner treat. I hope all french desserts are this easy.  Next time, I might try my hand at chocolate eclairs!

Thomas and I also decided that we need to explore our area, which is quite easy given the fact that in France you are always a day trip away from some Chateau of a famous French, historical figure. This weekend's trip took us to the neighboring town of Port-Marly to visit Alexandre Dumas' house. Alexandre Dumas, if you recall from AP English class, wrote high adventure fiction such as The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte Cristo.  His "country" house, which was converted into a museum,  included a chateau, formal gardens, and what Thomas called a "man cave" (a separate house on the estate where he worked on his novels).  The small museum showcased his heritage, his life, and his life's work.

Chateau Monte Cristo - Alexandre Dumas' country home.


The house across from the Chateau where Dumas wrote
- what Thomas has dubbed as the "man cave"

Dumas' desk in the man cave.

Beautiful architectural detail.

The trip to the museum was also our first outing with our new, old car.  What should have been a 20 minute drive, became 40 minutes even with the Tom Tom GPS.  The routes are marked clearly, but we could not figured out how to determine direction. The French clearly do not designate  routes like they do in the states (pairing route names with cardinal directions. Route 51 South for example).  The GPS told us to take route A13, but we would inevitable take the A13 going the opposite direction.  We think that it's like taking the metro. Direction is indicated by the end of the line, so you have to know that A13 Paris is heading SE, while Rouen is heading NW.   And just like the bus line, if you miss your stop/exit, it is miles (or kilometers) before you can turn around and head back in the other direction.

At least we figured out which gas to use for the car (thank goodness for a working smartphone with internet connection!).  Gazole is french for diesel, sans plomb is unleaded, and then they give you a choice of octane amount. We were just glad we didn't put diesel in the Nissan!

Amped up

Thomas and I have learned a very expensive lesson.  You cannot just buy a plug adapter so US plugs fit French outlets and expect US purchased appliances to work in France since most US appliances run only on 110 volts.  Before plugging anything in ... in fact before packing it up and shipping it over, it is best to check that electronics will be able to work on France's 220 Volt electric system.  Thankfully most laptops can work on voltages between 100-240V.  I had no fear of ruining my new Toshiba laptop by plugging it in here in France.  Unfortunately, we were not so lucky with our not-even-a-year-old Dyson vacuum cleaner.  We even bought a voltage converter for it.  But as soon as we plugged in the Dyson into the converter and then the converter into the French outlet we heard a small thud. This was either the fuse blowing, the Dyson crapping out on us, or both.  A quick google search (which we should have done back in the States) led us to believe that even with a converter, the Dyson is not going to work or at best the motor will wear out before long.  Same story with our fancy schmancy Cuisinart coffee maker. Lesson learned this week - check voltage requirements, and leave incompatible electronics at home.

On a happy note, we are getting a free car from some one who is leaving the organization and heading back to the States.  He also received the car for free, so now he is just paying it forward.  It's a 1997 Nissan Primera.  It's old, but it's clean. And, it functions. Having a car should make grocery shopping easier.  Sometimes we have to make two trips into the center of town because we can't fit everything in our shopping caddy and shopping baskets.  We are also looking forward to some weekend road trips!

Voted

Overseas Americans have the right to vote. Our last domiciled address is our legal voting residence. This means that we get to vote in the swing state of VA.

Requesting the ballot was easy (we did it online at FVAP.org).  In a few weeks we received our absentee ballots in the mail.

Thomas and I decided to vote this evening so we could mail them tomorrow - ensuring that the VA Board of Elections would get it by the end of the official voting day.

I once thought that absentee voting wasn't the same as going to the polls -- that the votes didn't count as much -- since they don't wait for the ballots sent by mail to be counted before calling the election (they being the media).  However, that is incorrect. An election cannot be certified until all the ballots are counted.  All votes count. All votes matter.

It is a good feeling to vote. Filling in the circles besides my selected candidate always make me feel empowered. I like to feel I helped my candidate get elected... that he or she couldn't win without me.

They even send you an "I voted" sticker.  I may post this in my office.

Molly helped Thomas make his selection... not really.