When you tell people that you are moving to Paris, the response is always "that is my dream." And why wouldn't people dream of living in a place where pastry and chocolate shops are no more than a block away; good wine is as plentiful as water; where you can visit the Mona Lisa, Venus di Milo, paintings by Vermeer and Gauguin all under one roof; and where there is a whole museum dedicated to Picasso that is set up like a Picasso painting. Just walking down the street for something as mundane as my morning commute makes me feel worldly and cosmopolitan.
But moving to Paris is not like moving from DC to Arlington. Sounds obvious but I don't think people know the details and frustrations of moving to another country. First- they speak a different language here. Again obvious, but this means doing things like online banking, getting a prepaid SIM card for the cell phone, asking how phone credits works, or looking for an apartment has a another layer of complexity that you don't need when you are already trying to adjust to a new life. Even grocery shopping is not always straight forward. I bought a zucchini squash the other day that I had to weigh it myself to get the price sticker to scan. Even though the scale uses pictures, the cucumber and zucchini photo looked the same so I had to figure out what the french word was for zucchini --la courgette. All of this of course is a learning experience. But the last thing you want to do when you need to transfer money among your bank accounts is to look at the online banking screen where 80% of the words are unfamiliar (Libelle, Solde, Virements.... huh? ). Second- they do things differently here. I can't really identify anything specific, but I'm just starting to get a sense that my expectations are going to have to change. For example, if you need something done or for someone to do something for you, it is not enough to just ask and then wait. You have to push and push some more and check on them. I've witnessed colleagues at work dealing with property management companies to fix a water heater or a leak. Let's just say there are lots of calls and lots of arguing. Not looking forward to that.
I am looking forward to finally knowing where we will be for the next year. We contacted a relocator to help us find and get settled into an apartment. Not knowing the language, the neighborhoods, or the system was enough for us to realize that it would just be easier to hire someone to help us through this. We have been communicating via email, but we haven't heard from her in a week. We asked to start seeing apartments on Monday. Umm, when are you going to call me, give me a schedule, let me know you are willing to help us.... Is this normal here? She will get a lot of money from us. I would think that is enough of an incentive.
So this week has been an up and down week. Monday I was invited for an aperatif by the women who owns the apartment I am renting. I got to practice my french since her husband doesn't speak any English, and I got to see what a "big" apartment in a nice neighborhood looks like. The flat was beautiful. It had high ceilings, tall windows, and lovely molding everywhere, but it was smaller than I imagined it would be. The living room was probably just 3 times our walk-in closet in Arlington. Space is certainly a premium here in Paris. The aperatif was an up. The re-locator not contacting me. That is a down. Realizing how poor my french is- a down. Having the toilet issues - a down. Having Thomas here to fix it- a big big up (having Thomas, the fact that he is handy, and the fact that he is on this side of the Atlantic- all ups). Getting an invite to the US embassy bar for a happy hour to celebrate July 4th. Another up.
Having a life you want to live takes effort. You have to persevere. You have to be fearless or at least acknowledge the fear and put it behind you so that you can move forward. You have to deal with the details so that you can live the dream.
Things are better when shared
Paris is beautiful and vibrant. There is no argument that one can find many things to do in this city. Anything as simple as walking along the Seine, people watching, visiting Gothic cathedrals, or having a cafe creme and a croissants at one of the many brasserie in the city is as easy as walking out the door.
But in my opinion, Paris, like most things, is better when you experience it with someone you care about. Not just because it's known as one of the best places for romance, but also because traveling and experiences are meant to be shared. Creating these connections with people makes us feel closer to friends and loved ones. There is nothing sadder than to be on the metro when it turns a corner to reveal the grandness of the Eiffel Tower only to turn to your neighbor in excitement and have it be an disinterested stranger. Maybe I need a witness who can confirm that yes, I am indeed living in Paris, and that without this witness it could all be a dream. Or maybe because I want to gush about the view, and you can't really gush to yourself. I can be independent and travel all by my lonesome. But why if you don't have to?
Last weekend was a treat. Thomas and a friend stopped by on their way to Geneva. Thomas and I gave his friend a whirl wind (five hour) tour of Paris. And despite the cold and rainy weather today, we managed to hit most of the items on the the tourist must see checklist.
The weekend started with me spending about 6 hours on Saturday going to Charles de Gaulle airport picking up Thomas first and then returning 3 hours later with Thomas to pick up his friend. After riding the RER B this many times, I must lament that this is probably a low point on most people's trip to Paris. It is unfortunate that the first and last memories of this beautiful city is the hour train ride through a comely section of France. The route is long and far from scenic and the neighborhoods somewhat rough. On my second trip to CDG on Saturday I witnessed a group of teens giving a man a hard time (this lasted for an uncomfortable thirty minutes). Not sure who started it (the man or the girls), but it made me wish their was a bit more supervision/security on these trains.
The upside of the CDG trips, is that I understand the layout of the airport better, so we'll be ready for the next time we have to go pick up visitors... or at least write up a how to guide to send to folks so that they can navigate the trip themselves.
The plan was to pick up Thomas, head to Paris to hang out for a few hours, head back to CDG to pick up his friend, ride back to Paris , tour the sites at night and then do a bit more the next morning. Unfortunately, the friend's flight was delayed which caused him to miss his connection. And long story short, it was 12:30pm by the time we got him settled in his hotel. Too late for dinner or to tour the Eiffel Tower, but at least it was not too late to have a glass of sweet Vouvray at the bar next door to the hotel. Item: Have French wine in France (check).
The next morning, we were off to an early start. Thomas and Dean had a 3pm train reservation, so we have five hours to show Dean the Paris highlights. We took the 38 bus from my hood to the 1st arrondissement (tourist central). After getting off the bus, karma put a crepe stand right in front of us. So no less than 1 minute from starting our morning tour of Paris, we had our first crepe (two nutella and one sugar)- messy since the warm buttery crepe melted the filling, but well worth it. Have a yummy crepe (check).
We walked as we munched on our crepes. Though rain was forecasted for the day, it hadn't started yet. Taking advantage of the OK weather, we walked along the Seine. On Sunday's the road that runs along the river, Voie George Pompidou, is closed to traffic, and many Parisians (and tourist) take advantage of this fact. As we walked along the river, we passed families on bikes, runners, and a photography group.
As we walked along the Seine we admired the sites- the Louvre on our right, Musee d'Orsay and the Eiffel Tower on our left. We also wondered how the girls in front of us managed to walk the uneven sidewalks on such high heels - one does have to look good when in Paris. Being a tourist is no excuse. But still I don't think wearing high heels is the only way to be stylish. Walk along the Seine. See the Eiffel Tower (check and check).
We walked to the point where the Champs d'Elysee hits the entrance of the Jardin Tuileries. Once you enter the garden you can look back and see the Arc de Triompe in the distance. This public garden is probably one of the most visited garden in Paris. As we walked in to the garden we caught of the whiff of the lavender growing in one of the many small garden plots. The cold and rainy weather most likely drove the tourist indoors, so we had the garden practically to ourselves. We saw a few hardy tourists, but lots of runners. We even saw what looks like a "boot camp" type exercise group. The thought of exercising in front of the Louvre almost got me to sign up... almost.
We walked through the Louvre courtyard. We revealed at the famous pyramids designed by architect I. M. Pei who also designed the National Gallery of Art East Building. And just like the mix of old and modern throughout Paris, the juxtaposition of the contemporary sculpture and the Palais du Louvre built in the 16th century works. Because of the rain everyone wanted to go to the museum. The line spanned the length of the outdoor courtyard which made me question the logic of going to Louvre to avoid the rain.
The second to the last stop on this whirlwind tour of Paris was Notre Dame. Not only did we get to tour one of the most famous gothic cathedral in the world, but since it was Sunday we technical were there for mass (so we "went" to church too!). Since we were way past our scheduled time of departure for our whirlwind tour, we might have pushed through the cathedral a little fast. We basically walked through taking only only a few pauses to briefly admire the rose stain glass window and the altar. Sorry, Dean. Come back later when you have more time and when there are fewer tourist in Paris. This ended our monument tour of Paris. Altogether we walked a little over four miles (So future visitors beware. You need to be fit to visit Paris. There is a lot of walking and stairs!).
The conclusion of the whirlwind tour was lunch at a popular brasserie a few blocks from my apartment. It had the stereotypical outdoor patio where Parisians sit, sip coffee or wine, and look bored We sat indoors but still near the big doorway. The menu seemed pricey and without any French sounding food- so we had two BLTs and one hamburger. We also had two bottles of soda at 5,20 EUROS and a beer for 4,80 Euros. Yes, welcome to Paris where your diet coke will cost more than alcohol. And thus concludes the five hour of tour of the city.
But in my opinion, Paris, like most things, is better when you experience it with someone you care about. Not just because it's known as one of the best places for romance, but also because traveling and experiences are meant to be shared. Creating these connections with people makes us feel closer to friends and loved ones. There is nothing sadder than to be on the metro when it turns a corner to reveal the grandness of the Eiffel Tower only to turn to your neighbor in excitement and have it be an disinterested stranger. Maybe I need a witness who can confirm that yes, I am indeed living in Paris, and that without this witness it could all be a dream. Or maybe because I want to gush about the view, and you can't really gush to yourself. I can be independent and travel all by my lonesome. But why if you don't have to?
Last weekend was a treat. Thomas and a friend stopped by on their way to Geneva. Thomas and I gave his friend a whirl wind (five hour) tour of Paris. And despite the cold and rainy weather today, we managed to hit most of the items on the the tourist must see checklist.
The weekend started with me spending about 6 hours on Saturday going to Charles de Gaulle airport picking up Thomas first and then returning 3 hours later with Thomas to pick up his friend. After riding the RER B this many times, I must lament that this is probably a low point on most people's trip to Paris. It is unfortunate that the first and last memories of this beautiful city is the hour train ride through a comely section of France. The route is long and far from scenic and the neighborhoods somewhat rough. On my second trip to CDG on Saturday I witnessed a group of teens giving a man a hard time (this lasted for an uncomfortable thirty minutes). Not sure who started it (the man or the girls), but it made me wish their was a bit more supervision/security on these trains.
The upside of the CDG trips, is that I understand the layout of the airport better, so we'll be ready for the next time we have to go pick up visitors... or at least write up a how to guide to send to folks so that they can navigate the trip themselves.
The plan was to pick up Thomas, head to Paris to hang out for a few hours, head back to CDG to pick up his friend, ride back to Paris , tour the sites at night and then do a bit more the next morning. Unfortunately, the friend's flight was delayed which caused him to miss his connection. And long story short, it was 12:30pm by the time we got him settled in his hotel. Too late for dinner or to tour the Eiffel Tower, but at least it was not too late to have a glass of sweet Vouvray at the bar next door to the hotel. Item: Have French wine in France (check).
The next morning, we were off to an early start. Thomas and Dean had a 3pm train reservation, so we have five hours to show Dean the Paris highlights. We took the 38 bus from my hood to the 1st arrondissement (tourist central). After getting off the bus, karma put a crepe stand right in front of us. So no less than 1 minute from starting our morning tour of Paris, we had our first crepe (two nutella and one sugar)- messy since the warm buttery crepe melted the filling, but well worth it. Have a yummy crepe (check).
We walked as we munched on our crepes. Though rain was forecasted for the day, it hadn't started yet. Taking advantage of the OK weather, we walked along the Seine. On Sunday's the road that runs along the river, Voie George Pompidou, is closed to traffic, and many Parisians (and tourist) take advantage of this fact. As we walked along the river, we passed families on bikes, runners, and a photography group.
As we walked along the Seine we admired the sites- the Louvre on our right, Musee d'Orsay and the Eiffel Tower on our left. We also wondered how the girls in front of us managed to walk the uneven sidewalks on such high heels - one does have to look good when in Paris. Being a tourist is no excuse. But still I don't think wearing high heels is the only way to be stylish. Walk along the Seine. See the Eiffel Tower (check and check).
We walked to the point where the Champs d'Elysee hits the entrance of the Jardin Tuileries. Once you enter the garden you can look back and see the Arc de Triompe in the distance. This public garden is probably one of the most visited garden in Paris. As we walked in to the garden we caught of the whiff of the lavender growing in one of the many small garden plots. The cold and rainy weather most likely drove the tourist indoors, so we had the garden practically to ourselves. We saw a few hardy tourists, but lots of runners. We even saw what looks like a "boot camp" type exercise group. The thought of exercising in front of the Louvre almost got me to sign up... almost.
We walked through the Louvre courtyard. We revealed at the famous pyramids designed by architect I. M. Pei who also designed the National Gallery of Art East Building. And just like the mix of old and modern throughout Paris, the juxtaposition of the contemporary sculpture and the Palais du Louvre built in the 16th century works. Because of the rain everyone wanted to go to the museum. The line spanned the length of the outdoor courtyard which made me question the logic of going to Louvre to avoid the rain.
The second to the last stop on this whirlwind tour of Paris was Notre Dame. Not only did we get to tour one of the most famous gothic cathedral in the world, but since it was Sunday we technical were there for mass (so we "went" to church too!). Since we were way past our scheduled time of departure for our whirlwind tour, we might have pushed through the cathedral a little fast. We basically walked through taking only only a few pauses to briefly admire the rose stain glass window and the altar. Sorry, Dean. Come back later when you have more time and when there are fewer tourist in Paris. This ended our monument tour of Paris. Altogether we walked a little over four miles (So future visitors beware. You need to be fit to visit Paris. There is a lot of walking and stairs!).
The conclusion of the whirlwind tour was lunch at a popular brasserie a few blocks from my apartment. It had the stereotypical outdoor patio where Parisians sit, sip coffee or wine, and look bored We sat indoors but still near the big doorway. The menu seemed pricey and without any French sounding food- so we had two BLTs and one hamburger. We also had two bottles of soda at 5,20 EUROS and a beer for 4,80 Euros. Yes, welcome to Paris where your diet coke will cost more than alcohol. And thus concludes the five hour of tour of the city.
~ Fin ~
Number 38
If you want to feel less like a tourist and more like someone who lives in the city, take the bus. Tourists don't take buses. Buses can take you places where metros don't go. If you take the wrong bus, you could end up in places tourists shouldn't go. But I actually prefer buses. They are crowded during rush hour, but not nearly as crowded as the metro or tram. The trams during rush hours are like living jigsaw puzzles. Bodies, bags, and purses placed in such a way to maximize the number of people on the tram and minimize empty space. Buses are crowded, but not so crowded that I do get a sliver of space between me and the next guy.
Another advantage of buses over metros is that you are above ground. Metros are dark, cold, and damp. You have to navigate cavernous and at times desolate tunnels that twist and turn to get from one line to another. Buses show you the city. They show you people going about their quotidian lives- going to work; visiting friends; shopping. If you are lucky enough you get to see some sites along the way.
The number 38 bus takes me from my neighborhood straight to the center of town. It's a pleasant twenty minute commute through the 14th, 6th and right into the 1st. Now, I did take it during the time of day when the sun was just about to set (during this time of year that's about 9:30pm). Lights start to add a soft glow to the city, but there is still enough ambient light that you can see some details on buildings. It's romantic. The bus ride showed a beautiful, elegant Paris. The Paris people think about when they say the dream of living in Paris. A bonus to the 38 is that if you sit on the correct side of the bus, you get a glimpse of Notre Dame.
But like I said earlier, taking the bus means you get see the daily lives of Parisians - the good, the bad, or the bizarre. This evening, on my bus ride to my French language meetup group I saw/experienced some strange things during the twenty minute bus ride.
* A man riding a bike with a small dog in the backpack he was wearing. The dog was zipped up in the bag with his tiny head sticking out. I could not tell if the dog was happy or scared.
* The bus driver honking at and nearly missing said man and dog, and then continuing to aggressively honk at the taxi in front of him.
* Shortly there after, the bus driver stops the bus full of people (including me), gets off the bus, and starts yelling at the taxi driver who is now out of his cab as well. That is when I get off the bus and walk... Ce n'est pas normale, but it won't stop me from taking the bus.
Another advantage of buses over metros is that you are above ground. Metros are dark, cold, and damp. You have to navigate cavernous and at times desolate tunnels that twist and turn to get from one line to another. Buses show you the city. They show you people going about their quotidian lives- going to work; visiting friends; shopping. If you are lucky enough you get to see some sites along the way.
The number 38 bus takes me from my neighborhood straight to the center of town. It's a pleasant twenty minute commute through the 14th, 6th and right into the 1st. Now, I did take it during the time of day when the sun was just about to set (during this time of year that's about 9:30pm). Lights start to add a soft glow to the city, but there is still enough ambient light that you can see some details on buildings. It's romantic. The bus ride showed a beautiful, elegant Paris. The Paris people think about when they say the dream of living in Paris. A bonus to the 38 is that if you sit on the correct side of the bus, you get a glimpse of Notre Dame.
But like I said earlier, taking the bus means you get see the daily lives of Parisians - the good, the bad, or the bizarre. This evening, on my bus ride to my French language meetup group I saw/experienced some strange things during the twenty minute bus ride.
* A man riding a bike with a small dog in the backpack he was wearing. The dog was zipped up in the bag with his tiny head sticking out. I could not tell if the dog was happy or scared.
* The bus driver honking at and nearly missing said man and dog, and then continuing to aggressively honk at the taxi in front of him.
* Shortly there after, the bus driver stops the bus full of people (including me), gets off the bus, and starts yelling at the taxi driver who is now out of his cab as well. That is when I get off the bus and walk... Ce n'est pas normale, but it won't stop me from taking the bus.
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| On the 38 bus heading home to the 14th |
Craving America
There are few things I am starting to miss. I miss hearing English.... on the TV. Sometimes I just want random background noise and the french TV just isn't cutting it. I did find the free TV download section on itunes as well as the ustvnow.com site that shows live TV on four US channels.
Last night I was watching a food network show about the best sandwiches in the US. It reviewed Primanit's sandwich from Pittsburgh, a shaved pork sandwich from Philly, and a pastrami on rye from Katz's deli in NYC. That's when I realized that I craved a good sandwich. One with well made deli meat and cheese between two thick slices of bread. You can find most things here Paris - there is Sarbucks, Dominios Pizza, and a KFC (none of which I have tried) within a block from my place. There is take out Chinese, Sushi, and of course french cafe food all around. But a good deli, not so much.... Or so I thought.
With a quick good search, I easily found that a Jewish deli does exist in Paris. And not just one, there is at least enough for one blog to deem La Boutique Jaune de Sacha Finkelsztajn as the best Jewish deli in Paris. So now, I have my next outing destination. And in preparation, I found the translation of some important words:
English: pastrami. bagel. rye. mustard.
French: pastrami. bagel. seigle. moutarde.
I'm ready!
Last night I was watching a food network show about the best sandwiches in the US. It reviewed Primanit's sandwich from Pittsburgh, a shaved pork sandwich from Philly, and a pastrami on rye from Katz's deli in NYC. That's when I realized that I craved a good sandwich. One with well made deli meat and cheese between two thick slices of bread. You can find most things here Paris - there is Sarbucks, Dominios Pizza, and a KFC (none of which I have tried) within a block from my place. There is take out Chinese, Sushi, and of course french cafe food all around. But a good deli, not so much.... Or so I thought.
With a quick good search, I easily found that a Jewish deli does exist in Paris. And not just one, there is at least enough for one blog to deem La Boutique Jaune de Sacha Finkelsztajn as the best Jewish deli in Paris. So now, I have my next outing destination. And in preparation, I found the translation of some important words:
English: pastrami. bagel. rye. mustard.
French: pastrami. bagel. seigle. moutarde.
I'm ready!
La Belle Ville
After almost a week and a half of rain, we were treated to a beautiful day here in Paris on Sunday. Everyone was out waking, running, and riding bikes around the city. I decided to take advantage of it by spending the day walking around tourist areas (Marais and the area around the Louvre). Paris is beautiful. History just oozes out of the brick and mortars of its building.
Walking around the center districts I was in awe of architecture that lasted centuries. There is tremendous detail in the sculpture surround the windows, entrance ways, and even balcony railings. I felt like every building was historic in this area (and wouldn't be surprised if that was indeed the case). I walked for three hours admiring the Paris.
I walked for most of the day partly to be a tourist and partly to get some exercise. Aside from Parisian architecture, I also can't seem to resist french pastries as well. You have not tasted a real croissant until you have savored a buttery, melt in your mouth, flaky goodness until you have tasted one here in the belle ville. I've decided to try to find the butteriest croissant in Paris (or at least in the 14th arrondissement). So far the patisserie in the lead is the one the corner across from the Fransican Chapel on Rue Marie-Rose. Which means I have one every Sunday after mass. I also can't seem to resist a baguette. They are everywhere and as much as I try can't walk past the bakery near my apartment without going in a buying a "tradition" and on more than one occasion- a pain au chocolat. Now, since I love to eat all these delectable treats I need to find a active strategy tout de suite!.
Walking around the center districts I was in awe of architecture that lasted centuries. There is tremendous detail in the sculpture surround the windows, entrance ways, and even balcony railings. I felt like every building was historic in this area (and wouldn't be surprised if that was indeed the case). I walked for three hours admiring the Paris.
I walked for most of the day partly to be a tourist and partly to get some exercise. Aside from Parisian architecture, I also can't seem to resist french pastries as well. You have not tasted a real croissant until you have savored a buttery, melt in your mouth, flaky goodness until you have tasted one here in the belle ville. I've decided to try to find the butteriest croissant in Paris (or at least in the 14th arrondissement). So far the patisserie in the lead is the one the corner across from the Fransican Chapel on Rue Marie-Rose. Which means I have one every Sunday after mass. I also can't seem to resist a baguette. They are everywhere and as much as I try can't walk past the bakery near my apartment without going in a buying a "tradition" and on more than one occasion- a pain au chocolat. Now, since I love to eat all these delectable treats I need to find a active strategy tout de suite!.
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| City Hall |
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| Buildings around City Hall |
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| Louvre |
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| Pont au Change |
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| Lunch at Chez Janou |
Le monde est petit, et Paris est encore plus petit.
I went to my first French language meet up. It was near the Pompidou center. Getting there from metro was a bit of a challenge. Le Chalet stop has a bizillion exits, and the directions from Paris' version of wmata.com (DC's metro itinerary creator) fails to tell you which exit to take once you get off the train. My plan was to just take the firs exit and use google maps on the smart phone to lead me there. This would have worked if the data network was reliable, but as soon as I turned on my phone outside the station google maps was blank. I guess not enough juice with the connection. So I just started walking and hoped it would work out. Miraculously I walked in the right direction because all of the sudden the map came up. I walked staring at the smart phone. At one point I was walking faster than the iphone refreshed so I missed a few turns. Eventually I made it. It turns out this cafe is right next to Centre Pompidou, so next time I will have a landmark to guide me.
The meet up itself was pretty useful. I got to practice speaking French. The facilitator was good at letting us speak but also explaining grammar points. The people who attended were also interesting. I met another Filipino from Australia. His German girl friend who was about to leave for an internship in Burkina Faso. And someone else who worked at my organization (who was also from Australia). Everyone was nice, and in one night, I doubled the number of people I knew in Paris.
Lessons:
1) Avoid le Chalet if you can. That metro station is vast, cavernous and confusing.
2) Don't completely depend on your iphone. Service is not guaranteed.
The meet up itself was pretty useful. I got to practice speaking French. The facilitator was good at letting us speak but also explaining grammar points. The people who attended were also interesting. I met another Filipino from Australia. His German girl friend who was about to leave for an internship in Burkina Faso. And someone else who worked at my organization (who was also from Australia). Everyone was nice, and in one night, I doubled the number of people I knew in Paris.
Lessons:
1) Avoid le Chalet if you can. That metro station is vast, cavernous and confusing.
2) Don't completely depend on your iphone. Service is not guaranteed.
Another little ah ha moment - cell phones!
I'm still trying to figure out how the prepaid cell phone system works around here. The day after I arrived in France I figured out how to get a SIM card for my iphone. The sales person spoke 0 English, and yet I still managed to get a SIM card, a French phone number, some credit to make calls and texts, and to surf the internet.
Last weekend, I kept getting texts saying that I was running low on credit. I thought I bought more and re-charged my account with 10 euros worth of credit. But after spending the last hour trying to navigate through my account information on orange.fr's website, I finally realized that I bought the credit (from a very rude Parisian if I may add), but I did not correctly add it to my account. Lesson learned: don't throw out the receipt until you've confirmed the credit.
I also spent far too long trying to figure out where the credit was for my "data plan". I even tried googling it, but I was writing my question in English when the answer was going to be in French. That makes searches less efficient. I did manage to find my usage information under the details for "voir le detail de derniere communications". It became crystal clear.
You put credit on your account - which you can buy from Orange stores, supermarkets, and tabacs. Each time you make a text, you are charged 0.05 euros from your credit. When I you use the internet you are charged 0.15 euros for 1 unit (not sure what this unit is though). When you run out of credits, you add more. Additionally, when you buy your credits you can buy some that expire in a day, a week, 2 months etc...
From my internet research, I also learned of this plan called Internet Max. For 9 euros, you can have unlimited data use for a month. You subscribe by doing to following (info taken from here, but I updated the instructions)
The next day i decided to go to an Orange boutique that's two blocks from my apartment. They'll know how to set up my account. And that was the way to go. there was a bit of a wait, but I just happened to be there when an American was asking for the exact service I wanted (in English to boot). So when she was finished, I walked right up and said "meme chose svp". My credit card worked and in 2 days (?!), I'll have unlimited data service for a month. That's the way to go. And the guys are at the Orange boutique in the 14th on Rue General LeClerc and super helpful too.
That said, another difference between commuting in DC and commuting in Paris is that in DC everyone has their head buried in their smart phone or ipads reading the paper or playing angry birds. In Paris, surfing the net on your phone is too expensive for that, so instead people are reading books. The younger kids are accessorizing with their dr. dre beats head phones. At a couple hundred dollars a pop, apparently every young person in Paris is rich...
Things to know (Thomas are you listening?):
1) If you are in the 14th and need help getting your prepaid phone set up. Go to the Orange boutique on Ave de Gen LeClerc. Super helpful and at least 2 speak pretty good English.
2) You buy credits for your phone 5 euros worth, 10 euros worth, 25, 100 etc...
3) Credits expire and the amount you buy determines how long those credit lasts. 5 euros of credit expires in a week (I think). I just bought 25 euros of credit and those expire in 2 months.
4) When you make a call, send a text, use the internet, etc... money is deducted from your credits
5) For 9 euros a month you can subscribe to Internet max - unlimited data use
6) Your American credit card will not work on orange.fr
7) disable the email app that is part of the smartphone. I think the email application uses the credits. Instead use the safari or whichever web browser which should be part of the unlimited internet use of Internet Max.
Last weekend, I kept getting texts saying that I was running low on credit. I thought I bought more and re-charged my account with 10 euros worth of credit. But after spending the last hour trying to navigate through my account information on orange.fr's website, I finally realized that I bought the credit (from a very rude Parisian if I may add), but I did not correctly add it to my account. Lesson learned: don't throw out the receipt until you've confirmed the credit.
I also spent far too long trying to figure out where the credit was for my "data plan". I even tried googling it, but I was writing my question in English when the answer was going to be in French. That makes searches less efficient. I did manage to find my usage information under the details for "voir le detail de derniere communications". It became crystal clear.
You put credit on your account - which you can buy from Orange stores, supermarkets, and tabacs. Each time you make a text, you are charged 0.05 euros from your credit. When I you use the internet you are charged 0.15 euros for 1 unit (not sure what this unit is though). When you run out of credits, you add more. Additionally, when you buy your credits you can buy some that expire in a day, a week, 2 months etc...
From my internet research, I also learned of this plan called Internet Max. For 9 euros, you can have unlimited data use for a month. You subscribe by doing to following (info taken from here, but I updated the instructions)
- Dial #123#
- You get a startup menu showing the credit on your prepaid account. You need enough credit on your account to buy the data plan.
- Choose 1=Menu
- Choose 4=Bons plans
- Choose 4=internet and e-mails
- Choose 3=Option Internet Max
- Now you get a description, choose 1=Suite a few times
- Then choose 1=Souscrire (Subscribe).
- Finally, choose 1=Valider (Confirm).
Officially the option may take 48 hours to come into effect, however in reality it can take 3 hours and maybe even less.
You will not be notified before it is activated; to check if it is, use #123# menu too: once the option is activated, 1st menu item is changed to 1=Suivi conso options which would provide you the information that Internet Max is on.
More good info can be found here: http://prepaidwithdata.wikia.com/wiki/France
I needed at least 9 euros in my account. I tried to buy more credit from the Orange.fr website. Unfortunately, it did not like my American credit card. So to be continued. I'll have to go to a physical store to get more credit. Slowly slowly.
The next day i decided to go to an Orange boutique that's two blocks from my apartment. They'll know how to set up my account. And that was the way to go. there was a bit of a wait, but I just happened to be there when an American was asking for the exact service I wanted (in English to boot). So when she was finished, I walked right up and said "meme chose svp". My credit card worked and in 2 days (?!), I'll have unlimited data service for a month. That's the way to go. And the guys are at the Orange boutique in the 14th on Rue General LeClerc and super helpful too.
That said, another difference between commuting in DC and commuting in Paris is that in DC everyone has their head buried in their smart phone or ipads reading the paper or playing angry birds. In Paris, surfing the net on your phone is too expensive for that, so instead people are reading books. The younger kids are accessorizing with their dr. dre beats head phones. At a couple hundred dollars a pop, apparently every young person in Paris is rich...
Things to know (Thomas are you listening?):
1) If you are in the 14th and need help getting your prepaid phone set up. Go to the Orange boutique on Ave de Gen LeClerc. Super helpful and at least 2 speak pretty good English.
2) You buy credits for your phone 5 euros worth, 10 euros worth, 25, 100 etc...
3) Credits expire and the amount you buy determines how long those credit lasts. 5 euros of credit expires in a week (I think). I just bought 25 euros of credit and those expire in 2 months.
4) When you make a call, send a text, use the internet, etc... money is deducted from your credits
5) For 9 euros a month you can subscribe to Internet max - unlimited data use
6) Your American credit card will not work on orange.fr
7) disable the email app that is part of the smartphone. I think the email application uses the credits. Instead use the safari or whichever web browser which should be part of the unlimited internet use of Internet Max.
Life's little changes
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| I still need another 50 euros to pay for my metro tickets. |
Getting a job in Paris is only part of the task of moving your life here. It is a big part for sure. Getting this job certainly helped us get a long term visa. It facilitated getting a bank account. They are helping us with the move financially. It also gives us a starter network. Getting settled over here is much easier because of this job, but adjustment is not 100% easy.
Finding a place to live is much more complicated than in the states. Recent changes in the law made it more difficult for landlords to evict tenants. Because if this, landlords are requiring much more upfront documentation like proof of employment, financial records (in some cases), last three pay stubs, and rental insurance. For those of us who just got here, some of this is quite burdensome. It is a good thing that we gave ourselves 3 months to find a place. You definitely need some lead time to get things in order. I just keep telling myself that this is all just making me stronger. We are in France. Things are done differently here. We must work within their rules to get things done. Once we get over this hurdle, we will have more knowledge and experience to get through it easier the next time or tackle the next challenge. I know for me, the unknown makes me nervous. But with each step towards the goal, I become more sure footed and feel more comfortable with the task. I just need to keep moving forward.
I also noticed that I've had to make other minor life adjustments. Dinners were once a regular evening ritual that Thomas and I would share. I found those times a nice way to transition from work to relaxed evening mode. Meals are no longer that involved - for one thing i only have two burners, no counter space, only salt, pepper, and garlic, dull knives and no Thomas for the moment. The meals are simple and quick. But I still have it with a glass of wine. I am in France after all.
Espresso is now my morning beverage. My brother, bought us a Keurig single cup coffee brewer for Christmas so I was in the habit of having these coffee pods that you put in the machine to make your coffee. Unfortunately, they don't have Keurigs here. There also isn't a coffee coop at work where we pay 25 cents for a cup coffee. Instead, outside my office, no where near a kitchen, we have miniature nesspresso machine. Even on the largest cup setting it makes some pretty strong coffee/espresso. I have two cups which usually lasts me all day. Maybe that is why it is 12:14pm, and I am no where near tired.
Lastly, I have started hoarding coins. Because European credit cards and credit card readers us chips rather than strips, my current plastic does not work in metro machines. This by far has been the biggest inconvenience. Every week, I have to delve into my purse and try to scrounge up 12,70 euros in coins so I can buy the carnet (10) metro tickets. I really should get the Navigo metro pass, but in order to get the monthly pass I have to some how put 66 euros on the card. I am certain that the ticket machine will not have the patience to wait for me to put 66 euros worth of coins into it. Even if I used the 2 euro coin, that is still 33 pieces I will have to use. I think I may be allowed to "recharge" the metro pass at an ATM. I am still waiting for my bank card however. Once I have that, I will definitely investigate this option.
Ah, Paris! On the positive side, my research today lead me to a useful blog about things to do in Paris.
Sunday morning in my 'hood
I always thought one way to get a sense of a community was to find the local catholic church and see who is there. Are they young? Are they old? Is there diversity? An additional benefit is also trying to improve my language skills in the context of something familiar to me, like a catholic mass.
Turns out the Franciscans order's convent was a two blocks from apartment. Their chapel was small but it had beautiful stain glass windows that were illuminated by the morning sunlight. They had chairs instead of pews and no kneelers (that should please you , Thomas).
People were friendly. There were some diversity both in age and background though I would have to say there more people over 60 than under. There were no children at all (not sure if this had something to do with the church itself, French families in general, or the neighborhood). There were also quiet a few people with various levels of mental disabilities attending mass.
It was evident that my french church vocabulary is very weak. I think I understood about 15% of what was said. Just for my sake I am going to copy one prayer in French so I can at least know where we are in the mass. It pretty much translates word for word with what I learned as a kid, except we didn't have those last two lines.
The Lord's Prayer
(French - "Notre Père")
Notre Père, qui es aux cieux,
Que ton nom soit sanctifié,
Que ton règne vienne,
Que ta volonté soit faite sur la terre comme au ciel.
Donne-nous aujourd'hui notre pain de ce jour.
Pardonne-nous nos offences
Comme nous pardonnons aussi à ceux qui nous ont offensés.
Et ne nous soumets pas à la tentation,
mais délivre-nous du mal,
car c'est à toi qu'appartiennent le règne,
la puissance et la gloire, aux siècles des siècles.
Amen.
Also regarding the interactive part where we shake hands with those sitting near us and offer them peace, here in France they say "La paix du Christ". I did not know this at the time, so I just shook their hands, smiled and nodded.
After mass, I walked to the corner bakery and had a coffee and chocolate croissant. This could either be a nice Sunday routine or my downfall since besides walking around town (there are a lot of stairs in Paris!) I have not done a bit of exercise. I sat in the sunny window of the cafe. I read the Sunday magazine that comes with the local French newspaper. It was a nice way to spend a Sunday morning.
Turns out the Franciscans order's convent was a two blocks from apartment. Their chapel was small but it had beautiful stain glass windows that were illuminated by the morning sunlight. They had chairs instead of pews and no kneelers (that should please you , Thomas).
People were friendly. There were some diversity both in age and background though I would have to say there more people over 60 than under. There were no children at all (not sure if this had something to do with the church itself, French families in general, or the neighborhood). There were also quiet a few people with various levels of mental disabilities attending mass.
It was evident that my french church vocabulary is very weak. I think I understood about 15% of what was said. Just for my sake I am going to copy one prayer in French so I can at least know where we are in the mass. It pretty much translates word for word with what I learned as a kid, except we didn't have those last two lines.
The Lord's Prayer
(French - "Notre Père")
Notre Père, qui es aux cieux,
Que ton nom soit sanctifié,
Que ton règne vienne,
Que ta volonté soit faite sur la terre comme au ciel.
Donne-nous aujourd'hui notre pain de ce jour.
Pardonne-nous nos offences
Comme nous pardonnons aussi à ceux qui nous ont offensés.
Et ne nous soumets pas à la tentation,
mais délivre-nous du mal,
car c'est à toi qu'appartiennent le règne,
la puissance et la gloire, aux siècles des siècles.
Amen.
Also regarding the interactive part where we shake hands with those sitting near us and offer them peace, here in France they say "La paix du Christ". I did not know this at the time, so I just shook their hands, smiled and nodded.
After mass, I walked to the corner bakery and had a coffee and chocolate croissant. This could either be a nice Sunday routine or my downfall since besides walking around town (there are a lot of stairs in Paris!) I have not done a bit of exercise. I sat in the sunny window of the cafe. I read the Sunday magazine that comes with the local French newspaper. It was a nice way to spend a Sunday morning.
A Morning in Giverny
The morning started early (alarm went off at 6:30am) since I wanted to catch the 8:20 train to Vernon. Despite the early wake up time, I managed to find my way through the metro system and up to the "Grande Lignes" area of the train station on schedule - the schedule I created last night using my research :). I bought my ticket and found a seat with 5 minutes to spare.
The train was pretty crowded- 80% were tourists all heading to the same place. As I sat down next to the window, a young guy asked if he could take the seat next to mine. Seeing how crowded this train was, I didn't see why not. A few minutes after the train started moving, he fell a sleep - a deep sleep. A head to the shoulder, mouth open kinda sleep. As I was watching the scenery move outside the train window, I noticed that the dude reeked of alcohol... mind you, it was 8:30 in the morning. Thankful it was only a 45 minutes ride and he would be asleep for most of it.
Eventually, the train ticket taker came by. She looked at him sleeping then smiled at me and the women sitting across the aisle. We both smiled back and rolled our eyes at this guy. The train ticket taker nudged the dude to get his attention. No movement. She nudged him again. Nothing. Shook his arm. He grimaces but is still asleep. That is when I noticed that this dude also had a black eye and fresh scrapes on his face and knuckles. He had a rough night/early morning. She finally wakes him. He is cranky. It takes him a while to find his ticket and the train official gives him a hard time - it did look like he might have tried get on the train without one. Ten minutes later, the official is satisfied and the dude is back asleep. Fast asleep again. I couldn't wake him at my stop. I had to climb over him to leave. Maybe next time, I will buy a first class ticket.
The mass exodus from the train towards Giverny made it easy to find my way. Be a lemming and follow the crowd. I read last night on TripAdvisor that there is café directly across from the entrance of the station where you can rent bikes. And as I emerged from the station, I saw their big signs that advertised their bike rentals. I give them 9 euros and showed my id. They gave me a bike, a lock, and a photo copied map to Giverny. The post said how easy it was to rent a bike. They were right. The post also said the map was easy to follow and bike path was easy to find. They were wrong about that.
Looking at the map it seems like an easy route. Go straight through town, after the bridge, turn right. What it doesn't show is that right before the round about end of town, the street turns one way. Are tourist suppose to ride against traffic? That goes against all my sensibilities, so I followed the cars as they turned to follow the traffic patterns and then ended up on the same main street that was one way in the wrong direction. I decided to walk my bike on the sidewalk just until the bridge. After I crossed the bridge I saw a sign that said Route de Giverny. Logic tells me that this should be the road. But as I peddled my way down the street, it just didn't feel right to me. The road was narrow, there was no shoulder and large tour buses were driving (very fast) down this road. That is not the road described on the post, and that is not a road for tourist on bikes. Even though I saw a bunch of tourist on bikes take this road, I turned back to retrace my steps. After looking at the map and comparing it with what google maps was showing me (thank goodness for internet!), I eventually found the small tiny road that I was suppose to take. And if you squint hard while looking at the map, you can see that the highlighted road is indeed Voie Andre Touflet and not Route de Giverny. This route was much better. The voie was a proper bike path- well paved, straight, flat, and idyllic. That was fine until the bike path stops after biking only for 20 minutes and there wasn't a useful sign anywhere. I was left with two choices. I could get on the Route de Giverny or take Rue Claude Monet. Well hopefully France was the kind of place that named a road because someone lived there. And it was indeed! Taking Rue Claude Monet was right decision. The road wasn't in perfect condition, but it did meander through a quaint village-- at least I am going to pretend that. In reality the quaint houses that lined this street were all the bed and breakfasts for tourist who want to stay in Giverny.
There are two gardens in Claude Monet's house. Clos Normand, the large garden in front of the house, is an explosion of colors and shapes. Poppies are strewn through out. Roses climbing walls and trellises. Flowers I'd never seen before in corners around trees. There are large bold flowers, like peonies, as well as small dainty ones like snow drops. The second garden, Japanese inspired, is more serene. It has far fewer colors, but many shades of green. The pond in this garden is full of the famous water lilies. Both gardens are a photographers dream. I could spend many mornings in different seasons snapping away photos there. Now since I take better photos than writing creative descriptions about them, I just posted some photos of the gardens below. Enjoy.
The crowds, not surprisingly, are crazy. There are very few part of garden where you aren't walking in a single file. They do keep people at the edges of the garden, so with some creative angles you can take photos without a million tourists posing. You can also go into the house, but line was easily 50 persons deep and I had lost patience at this point. Seeing the interior of the house is put on my to do list for later. This is one of the advantages of being a tourist where you live. When you say, you can always come back, you really can.
I decided to bike back and have lunch in Vernon. Navigating back was much easier than getting there- though biking around round-abouts is still daunting. I don't know how people do that.
I found a brasserie in town where I had mussels and fries - a bit heavy for lunch, but I can't resist them when they are on the menu. The restaurant wasn't very busy. An older woman was seated beside me. She was dainty and made cheerful conversation with me and the other woman seated at the table next to hers. My french was understandable but it definitely could use some improvement. She talked about the weather, asked where I was from. I tried to explain where the Philippines was located. I'm sure she knew where. It is unfortunate that "Philippines" is one of the words I can not pronounce in French, so I think she just didn't understand me.
They brought my mussels with the recognizable black pot with the smaller one inverted and covering the shell fish. They were small but good. It had a creamy sauce with fennel. As the waitress was bringing the bread basket, she dropped a few pieces on the floor (right next to me) proceeded to put the bread pieces that fell back in the basket and then onto my table... well, that is one way for me to stop eating carbs.
Well, that is it for day. Not bad for my second Saturday in France. Will definitely come back to Giverny, but not during peak tourist season.
Lesson learned for today:
1) Always bring your smart phone
2) Be sure you have enough credits on it
Some useful links:
Calendar showing which flowers are blooming when in the garden
Some useful links:
Calendar showing which flowers are blooming when in the garden
Visitor's information for Claude Monet's house and garden
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| Bike Path to Giverny |
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| Worthless map |
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| Monet's garden- Clos Normand |
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| Poppies |
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| Let's just call this a purple ball flower for now. |
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| More poppies. |
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| Water lilies in the Monet's Japanese garden |
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| Monet's house in the background. |
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| Iris and friend. |
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| Village of Giverny |
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| Village of Giverny |
The good and the bad of grocery shopping in Paris
On my way to work the other day, I found the Carrefour, one of the largest chains of super markets in the world, in my neighborhood. It has more selection than the Monoprix so I think I will be doing most of my shopping there.
I decided to do my grocery shopping for the week after work today because who would want to spend a weekend in Paris shopping for groceries. I made my list as I waited for the tram, and off I went to do my first bit of shopping in Paris.
First the good. Only in Paris do you have a cheese section area in a chain grocery store that takes up three aisles. Any type of cheese you could want including some that comes in a tub (?) is there for the taking. The cheese section at Whole Foods in the States (which is usually the size of a large dining room table) pales in comparison. And then of course there is the wine. I bought a nice Cote de Rhone for less than 4 euros. If I could live on wine and cheese alone, I'd be golden. And, the total for my bill which included a small steak for dinner tonight, enough food for two additional dinners and two lunches, plus some staples like soy sauce and tupperware, just came to 32 euros (about $40). I don't think Paris is really as expensive as everyone says (though I still haven't done restaurants yet).
Now the bad, or at least the annoying. Paris grocery stores after work are just as crowded and congested as the Paris streets during rush hour. I generally enjoy grocery shopping. Walking leisurely around the aisles thinking about all the good dishes we would be preparing in the coming week I often found pleasant. This evening, however, was a little on the stressful side. Aisles were crowded. Everyone and their kid was there (from the looks of things, it must have been bring your screaming toddler to the grocery store day today). Because no one drives to go grocery shopping in Paris, folks were dragging around their little personal shopping caddy (see photo) so that they can wheel their purchases back home. They also leave their shopping baskets in the middle of the aisle randomly. Too many things to look out for as you work your way around the store. And you had to work your way around the store because organization was less than logical. They had two areas for bread- of course no where near each other. Orange juice is found in the refrigerated beverage aisle unless it was snack size, then it was found on the other side of the store in the refrigerated snack section. Soy sauce was in the corner of the wine section (why? I do not know). I still don't know where they put their ramen noodles or their creamer. More exploration needed, but will have to save it for another day.
I decided to do my grocery shopping for the week after work today because who would want to spend a weekend in Paris shopping for groceries. I made my list as I waited for the tram, and off I went to do my first bit of shopping in Paris.
First the good. Only in Paris do you have a cheese section area in a chain grocery store that takes up three aisles. Any type of cheese you could want including some that comes in a tub (?) is there for the taking. The cheese section at Whole Foods in the States (which is usually the size of a large dining room table) pales in comparison. And then of course there is the wine. I bought a nice Cote de Rhone for less than 4 euros. If I could live on wine and cheese alone, I'd be golden. And, the total for my bill which included a small steak for dinner tonight, enough food for two additional dinners and two lunches, plus some staples like soy sauce and tupperware, just came to 32 euros (about $40). I don't think Paris is really as expensive as everyone says (though I still haven't done restaurants yet).
Now the bad, or at least the annoying. Paris grocery stores after work are just as crowded and congested as the Paris streets during rush hour. I generally enjoy grocery shopping. Walking leisurely around the aisles thinking about all the good dishes we would be preparing in the coming week I often found pleasant. This evening, however, was a little on the stressful side. Aisles were crowded. Everyone and their kid was there (from the looks of things, it must have been bring your screaming toddler to the grocery store day today). Because no one drives to go grocery shopping in Paris, folks were dragging around their little personal shopping caddy (see photo) so that they can wheel their purchases back home. They also leave their shopping baskets in the middle of the aisle randomly. Too many things to look out for as you work your way around the store. And you had to work your way around the store because organization was less than logical. They had two areas for bread- of course no where near each other. Orange juice is found in the refrigerated beverage aisle unless it was snack size, then it was found on the other side of the store in the refrigerated snack section. Soy sauce was in the corner of the wine section (why? I do not know). I still don't know where they put their ramen noodles or their creamer. More exploration needed, but will have to save it for another day.
My hood
Been in the neighborhood for almost a week now, and I'm starting to feel like I live here. I walk around like a resident and not like a tourist. Things are starting to feel familiar. I know where my grocery stores are located. I know where to get fresh fruits and vegetables. I know where the metro stations are as well as the bus and tram lines. I don't walk with a map in my hand - although I occasionally have the iphone on google maps to make sure the bus is going in the right direction.
I am slowly settling in. I have a bank account and checks! Now all I need is a bank card so I can withdraw money without a forex fee! I am getting mail. I have a Parisian phone number. Little by little it is starting to feel like I really did move to Paris.
Some photos from my hood:
This last photo is what happens when you buy a frozen pizza without reading its cooking directions. There is this great store that only sells frozen foods called Picard. You can buy anything there from appetizers to desserts. I stopped by yesterday and bought a frozen pizza for dinner. It wasn't until I tried to cook it that I realized you baked it instead of putting it in the microwave. With no oven, my only choice was to use two frying pans (thankfully they had removable handles) to cook it on the stove top. The pizza fit in the bigger one, and I place the smaller on over it. Amazingly enough, the crust got crunchy and the cheese melted! I would definitely call this one a success.
I am slowly settling in. I have a bank account and checks! Now all I need is a bank card so I can withdraw money without a forex fee! I am getting mail. I have a Parisian phone number. Little by little it is starting to feel like I really did move to Paris.
Some photos from my hood:
This last photo is what happens when you buy a frozen pizza without reading its cooking directions. There is this great store that only sells frozen foods called Picard. You can buy anything there from appetizers to desserts. I stopped by yesterday and bought a frozen pizza for dinner. It wasn't until I tried to cook it that I realized you baked it instead of putting it in the microwave. With no oven, my only choice was to use two frying pans (thankfully they had removable handles) to cook it on the stove top. The pizza fit in the bigger one, and I place the smaller on over it. Amazingly enough, the crust got crunchy and the cheese melted! I would definitely call this one a success. J'habite à Paris.
The small studio I have now is just temporary in order to give us time to figure out where we (Thomas, the beagles, and I) should live when Thomas and the beagles arrive in August . The 14 district is nice, not as densely populated as the center of town (far fewer tourists), but with lots of things to do. On the corner there is a small boulangerie (bakery) where I get my baguettes for 1,20 euros (I am convinced that baguettes in Paris are 0 calories). A bit further up the street near the metro entrance there is a small shop that sells fresh fruits and vegetables. Next to that there is a poissonarie, butcher, and a cheese shop! What more does a person need? Well, wine of course. I can get that at the Monoprix (chain store) or the Sacres Vins wine shop across the street from the flat. Urban living certainly has its perks. I'm glad I get to taste a bit of the Parisian city life at least for a few months. It's nice to be central to things, but I do like space. Did I mention that my current apartment is only 20 square meters (~215 square feet)? Basically I am living in 1/2 the space as our place in Arlington, but paying the same price, and with only a college size frig, and no oven.
As such, we are thinking of moving out to the burbs. We would like to be still on the Paris train system, but far enough where we can afford more space and the beagles will get more green grass on which to roll around. Something like Shrilington - close enough to get to the city on a car even by bike, with less people, but with it's own charm (ie things to do).
I explored an area today called Garches today. I had intended to visit Marne La Coquette which shares the same train station, but I followed the folks getting off the train and ended up in the town of Garches instead. This town is only a 20 minute train ride from Paris and has its own vibrant community. I walked from the train station to the center of town where I saw beautiful brick houses and a community park in front of the Marie (city hall). The town center has its share of Realtors and beauty salons - the last one I thought odd. I had a snack at a creperie across the street from the library. The proprietor kindly explained to me that crepes are sweet, but what I have always called a "savory crepe" is in fact a gallette. He was a charming man who not only made me a gallette, but he served me it to me in a shape of a bateau! Garches ended up being a very pleasant mistake.
All in all a good second day in Paris.
Lessons from today:
1) A shavory crepe is called a gallette
2) The french do not like air conditioning (not on the metro or restaurants or apartments)
3) Don't expect to find English speakers every where you need them (cell phone stores, real estate agents,and pharmacies)