So We are Moving to Paris: Walking the Tour du Mount Blanc

When Thomas suggested that we do an epic trek around Mount Blanc earlier this year, I did not fully comprehend what I had agreed to do. Yes, I knew it was 170 km long. I did the math. A ten day trek would mean 17 km a day. I knew it was in the Alps. But it was not until the first day of our hike, when we walked the first of many 17 km routes to a height of over 2100 meters that I realized what the next week and a half would entail.

Each day included a hike up, often steep, to the mountain pass as well as a hike back down to the valley. While we trained over the summer, the little hills we used for training seem piddly - considering it took us maybe five minutes to walk to the top as oppose to two hours on the real deal. I seriously considered throwing in the towel after day two. Was I strong enough? Was I ready? Thomas, who successfully climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and has made two attempts to summit Mt. Blanc, would not take no for an answer. For each of my pleas to turn back and give up, his reply was a steady - the only way out was forward.

The calculation in my head was that even though we had hiked seven hours already, we had another 4 hours to go until we reached the refuge (the hostel). For twenty minutes, we argued just below the col (the top of the hill). He thought I gave up too easily. I thought he was not listening to what I was telling him. In the end he won out. I resolved that we would miss dinner (often served around 6:30), but at least we had beds reserved.

Getting to the col was relatively easy (a slow slog up the hill), but getting to the refuge proved a challenge especially through the clouds which had quickly engulfed the top of the mountain. We could still see, but everything seemed cold and damped including some rocky surfaces that we had to traverse over. Step by careful step we forged ahead and eventually the Bonhomme refuge appeared through the mist almost like it was floating above the clouds. Everyone was already sitting and eating dinner including a very experienced French hiker who earlier tried to convince Thomas to stay at Bonhomme and not continue to the next refuge. He greeted us warmly and was relieved to hear that we took his advice.

Lucky for us there were two sittings for dinner. We arrived early enough to get in a warm shower before our meal which was served by candle light to conserve energy since the place was 100% solar powered. We ate, family style, with four Brits who were doing a part of the TMB. We chatted about the royal family, Scotland's vote for independence, as well as the hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc.

One of the highlights of this trip for me was the people you meet on the trail. The hiking was a challenge, but at the end of the day you have dinner with people who walked the same trail. People from all over the world with their own stories and histories. We met two women from Finland, a man from New Zealand who had just hiked the Pyrenees and was walking parts of the TMB until it was time to meet his friends in Dordogne, France. The first part of the trip we kept crossing paths with three American brothers - one lives in France, another in Sweden, and the other in Kansas city, and a group of Australians with their guide. We met an inventor and his wife, a couple from Alaska, and a student from Australia. Everyone was supportive and friendly. At the last refuge on our trip, we chatted with a French group, two friends hiking together and another Frenchman doing day hikes in the area. We talked about, among other things, French wine and cheese in addition to the hiking France.

This trip was physically and mentally challenging. The scenery was unquestionably spectacular. And a surprise to me, the over all experience was extremely enjoyable. We are even thinking about our next outdoor adventure.